Top 10 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup Questions & Answers

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Question

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Engine Code P1870

Code states transmission component slipping. What is this and how do i fix it.. i have looked all over but no can tell me anything usefull.

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P1870 is common. There is a valve that wears the body and will start to stick. It will be most noticeable during the 1-2 upshift as the computer will have to increase the pressure to work the sticking valve. If you haven't had the code long enough for the sticking valve to wear out the clutches you can but a tool to fix the valve body and replace the valve.

The problem really is the lockup coverter. The trany is taking too long to lock or unlock the convertor. When the computer detects this has occured twice in a row, it goe into OS mode. It decides it's slipping so it turns it's pressure up to the max. You get kicked in the A everytime if shifts from 1st to 2nd?


When is the last time you checked the fluid? Make sure it is correct color and amount... then look into THIS THREAD to find an aftermaket fix for your problem. (Trans Go Kit)

THanks


Comment posted on Jul 21, 2009 This comment in particular:

No, if the CEL is on and if it's a 1870 code.
Typical it will be OK when it's cold. It takes a lot of stop and go, or a little freeway to bring it up to failure temp. So every day things start off OK, but the shifts are a little off. If I was driving on the freeway at about 50 then slowed down and speed back up it would do something strange. It seemed to slip or shift gears slightly back and forth. Anyway after it's warm it starts to shift hard from 1st to 2nd even at light trottle. The problem is the lockup coverter. The trany is taking too long to lock or unlock the convertor. When the computor detects this has occured twice in a row, it goe into OS mode. It desides it's slipping so it turns it's pressure up to the max. You get kicked in the A everytime if shifts from 1st to 2nd.
Why this occures is on of GM's trans improvements. On the older version of this trans. (and those with the shift kit installed) you will feel it when the convetor locks and unlocks. Some ******** at GM desided this is a bad thing. His fix is insted of just locking and unlocking, he came up with a PWM system that would slowly lock and unlock by slipping the clutch in the convertor. To do this the PWM valve in the valve body bounces back and forth rapidly as the clutch locks or releases, as oposed to just moving once from lock to unlock. Guess what this does? It wares out part of the valve body! Are you getting the big picture yet! GM fixes this by replacing the valve body. The new ones don't have this failure mode (so says GM). The Trans Go kit make all of the shifts short and sharp, you will feel it every time the convertor locks or unlocks. It occures just above 40MPH at light throttle.
Hell, I could have told him that would happen! As part of the kit you will modify the servo and add springs. I do not think you will need a Vet servo after the kit is installed. If you do your homework first, you might get the job done in 5 hours. It took me longer, I did not know how to remove the servo.
Good luck. Also if your fluid is burnt, you will need a rebuild. The seals and clutches will be fried. Thanks for using FixYa - a Very Helpful rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

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Radio wiring diagram for a 1998 chevy s10

Radio wiring diagram for a 1998 chevy s10

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1998 Chevrolet S10 Pickup Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram.
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Orange
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow
Radio Ground Wire: Black
Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Radio Dimmer Wire: Brown
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 4′ x 6′
Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green
Rear Speakers Size: 4′ x 10′
Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

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how do i check my transmission fluid

how do i check my transmission fluid

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Fluid Level Check


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Remove the automatic transmission dipstick from the tube


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Check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick


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Automatic transmission dipstick marks; the proper level for a hot transmission is within the shaded area

Check the automatic transmission fluid level at least every 7500 miles (12,000 km). The dipstick can be found in the rear of the engine compartment. The fluid level should be checked only when the transmission is hot (normal operating temperature). The transmission is considered hot after about 15-20 miles (24-32 km) of highway driving.
Although the transmission should be checked while the fluid is at normal operating temperature, do not check it if it is at the extreme high end of the operating temperature range. Wait at least 30 minutes if you have just be driving the vehicle in ambient temperatures in excess of 90°F (32°C), at highway speeds for a long time, in heavy traffic (especially in hot weather) or have been pulling a trailer.

  1. Park the truck on a level surface with the engine idling, then shift the transmission into Park and firmly set the parking brake.
  2. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the selector through each gear range (pausing for about 3 seconds in each gear), then place it in Park. Allow the engine to run at idle about 3 more minutes.
When moving the selector through each range, DO NOT race the engine.
  1. With the engine running at a low idle, remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and then reinsert it firmly. Be sure that it has been pushed all the way in, then pause 3 seconds. Remove the dipstick again and check the fluid level while holding it horizontally. The fluid level should be between the upper notch and the FULL HOT line. If the fluid must be checked when it is cool, the level should be between the lower 2 notches.
Most of the transmissions for the 4.3L engine are equipped with a flip-top handle on the dipstick. To withdraw these, flip the handle upward, then pull the dipstick from the guide.
  1. If the fluid level is low add DEXRON®III automatic transmission fluid. The fluid must be added through the transmission dipstick tube, which is easily accomplished using a funnel. Add fluid gradually, checking the level often as you are filling the transmission. Be extremely careful not to overfill the transmission, as this will cause slippage, seal damage and overheating. Approximately one pint of ATF will raise the fluid level from one notch/line to the other.
WARNING Always use DEXRON®III ATF. The use of ATF Type F or any other fluid will cause severe damage to the transmission.

The fluid on the dipstick should always be a bright red color. If it is discolored (brown or black), or smells burnt, serious transmission troubles, probably due to overheating, should be suspected. The transmission should be inspected by a qualified technician to locate the cause of the burnt fluid.

Posted on May 05, 2010

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where can i get a 1992 s10 Fuse Box Diagram

where can i get a 1992 s10 Fuse Box Diagram

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Do any of these show what you need?
If not Autozone.com has online manuals (source of these pictures) and you can get your own log in and view them directly. You will need to input your vehicle and a few other items (VIN is not required) and create your account. Good luck.

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Posted on Sep 01, 2009

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how do I remove the starter from a 1998 chevy s10

how do I remove the starter from a 1998 chevy s10

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Jack the truck and place on supports and disconnect one of the batter cables so the power to the truck is dead. Begin by removing the transmission bell-housing support (there are two bolts and one nut. One bolt at the transmission and one bolt at the front of the engine and one nut back about 6 inches from the bolt) and remove the brace. Remove the driver side wheel. Push the rubber wheel well flap up into the engine compartment so that you can see into to engine compartment. You should see a heat shield that is in between the motor mount and the starter, remove it by taking the bolt out at the bottom of the shield on the frame (I believe its a 10 mm bolt). Pull out the heat shield by lifting it straight up and pulling towards you. From the front of the truck, you should be able to see the starter and see a nut that holds the starter to a bracket, remove this nut (8 mm nut). There is another one, but you won't be able to reach it at this time. Move back to the wheel well. You should see a bolt that holds the bracket on to the engine, remove this bolt (its either a 13 or 15 mm, I don't quite remember). You'll have to remove the battery cable from the solenoid, this can be done before or after the bracket bolt is removed, it doesn't really matter. Move to the transmission housing. Remove the inspection cover, there should be 2 bolts holding it on (10 mm bolts) and pull off the inspection cover. Now loosen the starter bolts, there are 2, one on each side of the starter (13 mm bolts). The one on the outside (driver side) may be slightly blocked by the exhaust pipe, but a wobble will work around it. (The hayes manual tells you to remove the exhaust pipe, but I was able to do it without doing so, but you can if you have the ability, it will probably mean you can get the bracket off easier). With the bolts out of the starter (one is short, driver side, the other is long, passenger side) it should drop down and rest on the transmission bell housing, don't try to pull it out yet. Go to the front of the truck and see if you can remove the remaining bracket nut, hopefully you can see it now and remove it. The bracket should come off and remove it. Now go push the starter towards the front of the truck and pull down, it should come out. There is still one wire attached, so support it as you bring it down. The wire is attached to the solenoid by a 8 mm nut, remove it and take the starter out.
The new starter will have nuts for both the solenoid and bracket, remove them before re-installing. Re-installation is pretty much the reverse. Put the solenoid wire back on, push the starter up into the bell housing, push straight up then tilt to the front of the truck and rest in in the bell housing. Reach up and place front bracket on to the starter, I remember it was easiest from the front of the truck. Put both nuts on if you can that attaches the bracket to the starter, I ended up only putting the one on the top, the bottom was to difficult and not worth the trouble (this was the second starter I put on the truck, so it missing didn't cause any issues). Now go back and put the starter bolts back in and tighten. Move to the wheel well, re-attach the battery cable to the solenoid and re-attach the bracket to the engine with the bolt. Put the heat shield back on by pushing in and sliding down and re-installing the bolt. Replace the transmission inspection cover. Make sure to pull the rubber wheel well flap back and re-install the wheel. Put the engine/ transmission bell house support back in with the bolts and nut.

This is not an easy job, but can be done with minimal tools (a metric socket set and metric wrenches and several socket extensions (a wobble helps as well)) but is very frustrating.

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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How do I adjust the door of my Chevy S-10 truck to

How do I adjust the door of my Chevy S-10 truck to tighten the seals and reduce the wind noise

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The first thing you need to do is to check the hinge pin bushings to see how worn they are. S-10s are notoriously bad on hinge pin bushings and hinges, and after a while, will droop slightly, causing your wind noise. The top pins are usually the worst. Look at where the pins go through the hinge. Can you see a cracked/worn/missing/misshapen bushing in there? These usually only lasted a couple of years, so likely it is so. The next thing to look for, is if the hole is oblong or egg-shaped or not. If it is, you're looking at some welding work on the hinge, or replacement. You may be able to get away with using a putty like qwik-steel in conjunction with new bushings to fix it if you want to stay on the cheap. New bushing/pin kits are available from most auto parts stores, and normally cost in the neighborhood of 7-10 dollars. The pins are fairly easy to remove and replace, with the hinge spring being the most difficult part of it. You can leave it out if you wish, but to reinstall it requires a special tool(another $8) to compress it and get it back where it needs to be. To remove the hinge pins, use a brass punch and a hammer, and tap down on the end of the pin until it is flush with the top bushing. Do the same for the bottom one(I think you tap up on that one if I remember correctly, but it will be obvious). You will then want a partner and something to support the door on when it comes loose. Lift on the door, while prying the pin the rest of the way out with whatever makes you comfortable. A pair of needle-nosed vise grips works perfectly for this. The pins will come out, and you pull the door away slightly, have your partner hold it, while you install the new bushings. Once the new bushings are in place, you can reinstall the door. I like to put the pins in upside down, so I know they won't work their way out while in use, but it's entirely up to you. One note of caution. When tapping out the top pin, your hammer will be dangerously close to your windshield. Be accurate with your hammer, or your hinge pins will cost you another $180 with the cost of a new windshield. Once this is complete, you can reassess your door adjustment needs. If you still need the adjustment done, then you will want to take it to a body shop where they'll bend the necessary parts of the door. With worn hinge pins, the adjustment doesn't do you any good. Hope this is what you're after.

Posted on Jan 04, 2010

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where is the oil sending unit located on a Chevy S10 Pickup.

It is a 1998 4 cyclinder 2.2 motor Chevy S10 pickup. We put a new fuel pump on it and it still want start. We were told that if the oil sending unit is not working that it can throw the fuel pump off. Please help us!

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MY S-10 IS LEAKING OIL. I WANT TO KNOW WHERE THE OIL SENDING UNIT IS.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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Leaking S10 Radiator...big trouble to replace?

Ok, so it seems that my radiator is leaking on my 2000 S10. How much trouble am I in for?

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Depends on whether you want to buy a new or used a salvage yard will cost significantly less. As far as changing the radiator is concerned is a fairly easy task, you will need a catch basin to capture the anti-freeze.
On the core support are three bolts removed them as well as the fan guard three bolts each side, you'll need a pair of pliers and a flat head screwdriver As well as a few wrenches, with the pan under the bottom hose squeeze together the clamp and slide it down the hose if you cannot pull the bottom hose off by hand use your screwdriver on the inside of the hose to help loosen it up then you should be able to get it off, then remove the two lines for the transmission it will leak some and I suggest using a rag under that then remove the top hose to the radiator remove old radiator and install the new radiator ..reverse installation is how it is reinstalled as well as replace fluid {anti freeze / dex cool } with the engine running add fluid as needed then replace cap and tighten .

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

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HOW DO I REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP ON 2003 CHEVY S10

HOW DO I REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP ON 2003 CHEVY S10 PICK UP

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Removal & Installation To Remove:

  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Drain the fuel tank through the filler pipe.
  3. Support the fuel tank.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Filler neck
    • Shield and tank straps
    • Fuel lines and vapor hose from pump and tank
    • Electrical connection from fuel pump
    • Fuel tank
    • Fuel pump/sending unit assembly by turning the locking ring (located on top of the fuel tank) counterclockwise using a spanner wrench
    • Fuel pump from the fuel lever sending device
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Fuel pump in tank with new seal around opening
    • Tank and connect fuel lines and vapor hose
    • Tank to the frame
      1. Torque to: 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Shield
    • Fuel filler neck and clamp
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Refill the tank.
  3. Run the engine and check for leaks.
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Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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What type of power steering fluid will I need for

What type of power steering fluid will I need for a 98 chevy s-10 4.3 lt V-6?

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The cap of the power steering reservoir should list it. dont put in auto trans fluid. use Power Steering Fluid.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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