Question about 2007 Ford Territory 4.0

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Parked my Ford Territory automatic. As I put it in park, the gears just stayed in reverse. Can't start the car now.

I was driving. Brake fluid also leaked on left side in the front. Did not even use reverse.

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If the shifter still moves but the display on the dash says it is in reverse you may have a broken cable you need to get someone to look under the passenger side of the vehicle the shifter runs a cable to the transmission and the end of the cable can break off right at the transmission so while one person is looking you want someone else putting the car from park to drive and back and you should be able to see the lever on the side of the trans moving
. this is not a easy job it is harder than it looks as part of the dash needs to come out to change the cable.
I would recommend if this is the problem contact a dealer and get it towed to a repair shop or dealer
cheers paul

Posted on Dec 06, 2015

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  • Ford Master
  • 2,075 Answers

Put a proper screwdriver onto the emergency slot on automatic (usually it's located next to handle) then try to shift to neutral or park. While on gear your engine is blocked from start. Perhaps you didn't push it to the end of P position hard enough.

Posted on May 13, 2015

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1 Answer

What happened? My Car will not drive forward or reverse, front wheels are now locked, can't even push it.


This is a transmission related issue. If the vehicle starts but will not go in any gear you have an intrernal tranny problem. Will it move at all in neutral? Check and see if the trans fluid is at the proper level. I believe these transmissions are just drain and fill ( no filter change ) during fluid service. If the fluid level is correct and a good color, the internal differential may have come apart causing the lock up situation. If the fluid level is low ( suspect a leak especially after a service ) and low fluid will cause a no shift/drive issue

Jun 21, 2015 | 2006 Kia Sedona 2.9

Tip

How to fix spongy brakes, or carry out a brake fluid bleed


This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

on Jun 30, 2010 | Mitsubishi Outlander Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Leaking fluid around left front wheel of 2001 Audi A6


If it is near the tire it is brake fluid. The brake fluid reservoir is back by the firewall driver side of engine compartment. Your car uses DOT 4 brake fluid.

Feb 13, 2014 | Audi A6 Cars & Trucks

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Fluid looks like transmission fluid leaking from front passenger side in front of the tire


Check your brake lines sounds like a brake issue is it a 4x4 check your axle seals also.

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1 Answer

How can i check out the master cylinder ? i have very little petal , only left front is catching.


Your master cylinder in front and rear. Drive your car to an empty lot to a bare spot and push hard on the brakes. Look for brake fluid starting to drip on the ground. Also look on the back side of your tires to look for brake fluid tracking due to a a slow leak.

Jun 14, 2011 | 1997 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

I've just changed the brake shoes. How do I bleed the brakes please?


This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

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1 Answer

I just purcahsed a 2003 ford excursion and I heard a whisteling sound yesterday coming from the front left tire while driving. I have noticed a fluid leaking from the left area and I went to stop this...


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Brake fluid is leaking out the front left tire!


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In most severe cases, the caliber may be faulty.

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