kawasaki Motorcycles - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Ryan and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test "WARNING" you can have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Kawasaki rouser 180 help
Preventing Backfire on Motorcycle Exhausts DoItYourself com
Kawasaki Motors Philippines Commuter Bikes
Bajaj Pulsar 180 DTSi Workshop Manual
http://ondoc.logand.com/d/1735/pdf

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kawasaki... | Answered Yesterday


Hi, Rosetta I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH---WHINE
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fenders---SCRAPE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
11. Gears---WHINE
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
16. Pistons---SLAP
17. Power Valves---CLINK& RATTLE
18. Radiators---GURGLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
21. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
25. Speedometers---bzzz
26. Starters---CLICK
27. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=27832
https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/kawasaki-sportbikes/16058-zx6r-beeping-sound-coming-gas-tank.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/935394/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-6r.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/850472/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-6r.html

2001 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, James for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Transmission+filler+plug+location+2003+kawasaki+KLR+650&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjx7Nb92ZzlAhWmslkKHS1EBM0QsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItjSZBHebGE
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/928363/Kawasaki-Klr650.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/850357/Kawasaki-Klr650.html

2003 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Check the tickover nixture is correct first.

kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 01, 2019


Hi, Nicholas the following is a systematic procedure for diagnosing fuel pump issues designed to keep "DRACHMA" to a minimum. If you need parts, check with Amazon and eBay first to keep costs down.
1. If your pump does not turn on check the pump fuse and relay and all wiring including connectors for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
1. Normal fuel pump pressure is 3-5 PSI.
2. Check any rubber or plastic tubing for age-related pinholes by removing and plugging the ends that connect to the fuel valve and then turn on the ignition switch and watch for fuel streams exiting the pinholes, if any exist, replace tubing as necessary.
3. Check for a clogged a primary fuel filter that comes off the bottom of the pump to screen out big rocks and clean as necessary.
4. Check for a clogged secondary fuel filter that's outside if applicable by removing it from the system and replace it with a short splicing tube turn on the ignition switch and recheck fuel pressure if pressure increases to the normal pressure you need a new secondary filter.
5. If all the above check out OK and the pump is not functioning properly then you need a new fuel pump.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/16-vulcan-1500/136538-fuel-pump-failure.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gk6hilmqufI
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1037490/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic-Fi.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1356799/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1500-Classic.html

1996 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 30, 2019


My 2006 vulcan 900 won't start after I replaced starter and battery. It makes a tickering sound when I try to turn it on.

2006 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 28, 2019


Hi, Gary for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ECU+location+2008+Kawasaki+Vulcan+900+Classic&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiWgfroz_PkAhUOjVkKHXzSCSsQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/45198-ecu-location.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375186/Kawasaki-Vn900-Classic.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://ownersmanuals2.com/kawasaki/vulcan-900-classic-2008-owners-manual-68833

2008 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 28, 2019


Hi, Don and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/54-vulcan-1700/23265-my-vaquero-wont-start-its-been-running-fine-specially-since-i-installed-pcv.html
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1070920/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1700-Vaquero.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/838271/Kawasaki-Vulcan-1700-Vaquero.html

2012 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 26, 2019


fuel not getting in the cylinder this could either be the float or mixture screw on the carb is a screw the air mixture screw turn this out 1 whole turn or just fiddle with it until it runs if not buddy get back to me c3568b1.jpg

1989 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 26, 2019


Hi, Rider111 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f23/2004-kawasaki-zx10r-not-starting-348122.html
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/what-to-do-if-your-motorcycle-doesnt-start/
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/375171/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-10r.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/257802/Kawasaki-Ninja-Zx-10r.html

2007 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 24, 2019


Vin numbers give all the info you need. Call a dealership and they can tell you. If there is a data plate, it also has the model on it.

kawasaki VN 800... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


If it is made different, then you got the wrong part. There can also be changes in electrical items in mid year production. Unfortunately, most electrical parts are not returnable. I suggest you take the part number for the part you got and look it up on the internet or go to your local dealer. OEM is the way to go. Good luck.

kawasaki Ninja... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Unfortunately electrical issues can not be solved over the internet. There are just too many variables to cover. I suggest you start at the power source and work your way towards the ignition. Once you find where the power stops, you will find the issue.

kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/79264-1987-ninja-600r-timing-issues.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgEBi6Cb3kE
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1101849/Kawasaki-1985-Zx600.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/

1995 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


Hi, Mike you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple of teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/56-vulcan-800/195113-running-one-cylinder.html
https://www.vn750.com/forum/31-engine-exhaust-cooling/20206-front-cylinder-not-firing.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/860662/Kawasaki-Vulcan-2000.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-kawasaki
https://www.vulcansabs.com/2005-kawasaki-vulcan-2000-owner-manual/

2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


First thing I would look at is the fuel tank cap. There is - or should be a tank breather tube. The cap and the tube can - and do - get clogged up with dirt. Clean this thoroughly with a solvent and poke something small into the hole(s) to ensure they are clear.
Also, check out the air filter - is one present ? If there is, is it clean ? Next, go for the spark plugs - these 400cc 4-strokes rev hard and high - more like 2-strokes - so the plugs take a real hammering. Invest in some iridium ones - well worth the expense.

kawasaki... | Answered on Sep 14, 2019


Hi, Carlton for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Firing+order+1980+Kawasaki+550+LTD&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj6xOry5sLkAhUIyFkKHWDkA6YQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/main-lobby/67465-spark-plug-firing-order.html
Kawasaki KZ400 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

1981 kawasaki Z... | Answered on Sep 09, 2019


Hi, Christopher for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Vacuum+and+fuel+line+routing+2003+Kawasaki+VN+750+Vulcan&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjvjM_Y48LkAhUvtlkKHcIZDEIQsAR6BAgFEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.vn750.com/forum/22-carbs-fuel-system/17301-fuel-line-routing.html
Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Owner Manual

2003 kawasaki VN... | Answered on Sep 09, 2019

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