Hi, Roadstar1761 the ignition circuit cut-off system comprising of the side stand switch, clutch switch and neutral switch has the following functions:
a. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is up, but the clutch lever is not pulled.
b. It prevents starting when the transmission is in gear and the clutch lever is pulled, but the side stand is still down.
c. It cuts the running engine when the transmission is in gear and the side stand is moved down.
Periodically check the operation of the ignition circuit cut-off system according to the following tests.
With the engine turned off:
1. Move the side stand down.
2. Make sure that the engine stop switch is set to "RUN"
3. Turn the key to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.
5. Push the start switch if the engine does not start the neutral switch may be faulty.
With the engine still running:
6. Move the side stand up.
7. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
8. Shift the transmission into gear.
9. Move the side stand down if the engine does not stall you may have a faulty side stand switch.
After the engine has stalled:
10. Move the side stand up.
11. Keep the clutch lever pulled.
12. Push the start switch if the engine does not start you may have a faulty clutch switch.
This check is most reliable if performed with a warmed-up engine.
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Hi, Ryan and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test "WARNING" you can have 12.5 volts or better but little or zero amps and the battery must be replaced.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
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Unfortunately electrical issues can not be solved over the internet. There are just too many variables to cover. I suggest you start at the power source and work your way towards the ignition. Once you find where the power stops, you will find the issue.
First thing I would look at is the fuel tank cap. There is - or should be a tank breather tube. The cap and the tube can - and do - get clogged up with dirt. Clean this thoroughly with a solvent and poke something small into the hole(s) to ensure they are clear.
Also, check out the air filter - is one present ? If there is, is it clean ? Next, go for the spark plugs - these 400cc 4-strokes rev hard and high - more like 2-strokes - so the plugs take a real hammering. Invest in some iridium ones - well worth the expense.
Not really enough information to help. What kind of motorcycle, what engine? Is it a 4-cylinder or 6 cylinder? Does it have a carburetor for each cylinder? You have spark on one and two, but it won't run? Could have no spark, or you could have carburetors not giving you fuel.