Hi mate I am Yamaha man myself but thought this may help I get this question often for YZ yamahaa if your cam is installed you will never get the chain over it on - YZ at least, you need to place chain over cam sprocket at same time as installing the cam before cam is locked in (and even that is very tight fit) especially if brand new cam chain is being fitted as well cheers mate not sure this helps but it sounded familiar good luck
ProClean is good stuff but not worth the money. The only reason I had it was because I won a create of it at our clubs Supercross race it's too expensive in my opinion.
I buy 40 litre containers of stuff called TFR which stands for Traffic Film Remover, it basically is a detergent like ProClean, Simple Green and all the others, only it costs a fraction of the price and isn't deluted. This means you can delute it to your own strength for different causes. You can see it removing dirt as you watch, like someone said above. You can not use it pure on the bike however, it will make alloy parts go dull - as my buddy found out lol. ,,,
and when the forks/bars/tripleclamps are straight the wheel goes towards the right. ii think they are twisted or bent. how much do new forks cost?Loosen your front wheel slightly.
Loosen your fork clamp bolts on the triple clamps slighty.
Hold the front brake lever.
Put one leg on either side of the front wheel to keep it from moving.
Use the handlebars to turn the front end back straight.
Tighten everything back up using a torque wrench and torqueing to the proper values from your service manual.
Go ride and have fun. ,
you need a micrometere or vernier caliper to measure how thick they are that how you tell how worn the clutch is. the manual will list the specificational limit (how thin you should allow them to get and how do the basket and innser hub looks like). if they have small teeth on them they are worn.,
but when the bike's stood for over 4 hours it's flat Confused Even with the main switch off
Any ideas?OK beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it.
10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests.
Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal.
You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery.
turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok!
Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading.
You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows:
One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit.
Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix.
If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!)
Hi, Pete and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day. HUSABERG Pure Enduro Service
Basically the only way water can get in the oil is if there is a corrosion hole in the housing behind the pump impellor. Water pumps have only 1 seal and if that leaks water will drain from a hole in the pump housing under neath the pump.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-tips-to-preventing-backfire-on-motorcycle-exhausts https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSky1ZfHdhA https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes https://itstillruns.com/stop-motorcycle-from-backfiring-2221631.html