and had the bike souped for it. Anyway the throttle is SUPER touchy.. You breath on it and it takes off.. Because of this I ended up dumpin it 30 min after I got on..haha... My question is is there a way to stiffen up the throttle so that i have to crank the grip harder to give it gas? I am very inexperienced, and when it took off, i tensed up, hittin the throttle even harder. I know i will appreciate the the responsiveness when I get more experience, but i dont want to die in the process..lol..
thanks for you help! ,UYou need to learn to hold on to the bike with your legs, so you aren't pulling on the bars during acceleraion.
The throttles are supposed to be easy to turn, so that it will snap completely closed when you let off. You can replace the throttle cam (the part that the cable attaches to) with a slower-opening unit that will give you more control. The amount you have to turn the throttle from closed to full-open will stay thesame, but it will open slower in the first half of the throttle pull, keeping you from getting such an abrupt surge of power.
Once you get a little more time on the bike, you won't have this issue any longer. You will learn proper throttle control, and your wrist will get used to the throttle pull. ,,,
Hi, Pete and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day. HUSABERG Pure Enduro Service
Basically the only way water can get in the oil is if there is a corrosion hole in the housing behind the pump impellor. Water pumps have only 1 seal and if that leaks water will drain from a hole in the pump housing under neath the pump.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-tips-to-preventing-backfire-on-motorcycle-exhausts https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSky1ZfHdhA https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes https://itstillruns.com/stop-motorcycle-from-backfiring-2221631.html