but when the bike's stood for over 4 hours it's flat Confused Even with the main switch off
Any ideas?OK beg,borrow, or steal a multitester with current(amps) reading on it.
10 amps is more than ideal, but you will probably need less after initial tests.
Ammeters need to be in series, not in parallel like volt testers, so disconnect one battery lead(either will do) and complete the circuit by putting the multimeter leads between the battery lead(disconnected) and the battery terminal.
You are now gonna see on the meter, every amp pulled from the battery.
turn the ign on and turn a light on, you will see the current rise, as amps are drawn, ok!
Turn the ignition off and see what happens. Probably with it set on the 10amp scale youll see nowt, so go down the range on the meter into milliamps, and my guess is that you will see a reading.
You shouldnt see anything at all with ign off, but Id guess you can see a few milliamps on the gauge. If this is the case, proceed as follows:
One by one, remove the bikes fuses and replace them, if at any point the reading drops to zero you have found the circuit which is sucking the power. If that fails, try again, but one by one undo (every) multiplug on the bike, again one of em should cause the reading to drop. When you have found a fuse or a plug that causes the meter to read zero amps, check that circuit.
Maybe there is a wire rubbing onto the frame, a switch corroded internally, or similar, but now you know the bit you need to fix.
If you connect the meter as described and there is NO current drain, you are either special! or leaving the side light circuit on(muppet!)
gday there have you cleaned the earth lead and positive lead on the ones going to the battery if you have then have you checked that your new battery has charge in it between 13 to 14.2 volts as some batteries do not come charged or if it is a acid type battery it may not have acid in it ,you probably would have checked this already but just a thought my end ,if all is good there did you accidently put the terminals on wrong for a second if you made a mistake like that the fuse may have blown ,easy done,if not check with a multimeter from your battery back to your starter soliniod and if all good there then check back from that .hope this helps cheers
Hi, Pete and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your question please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day. HUSABERG Pure Enduro Service
Basically the only way water can get in the oil is if there is a corrosion hole in the housing behind the pump impellor. Water pumps have only 1 seal and if that leaks water will drain from a hole in the pump housing under neath the pump.
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-tips-to-preventing-backfire-on-motorcycle-exhausts https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSky1ZfHdhA https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes https://itstillruns.com/stop-motorcycle-from-backfiring-2221631.html