20 Most Recent 2001 Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder Questions & Answers


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
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2001 Suzuki GZ... | Answered on Apr 08, 2019


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2001 Suzuki GZ... | Answered on Mar 29, 2019


Under the seat near the battery

2001 Suzuki GZ... | Answered on Dec 09, 2016


If the battery is to recover, you must not charge the battery at a greater current than 10% of the rated A/H. So if the battery is 20Ahour get a charger that gharges at around 1.5 to 2.0 Amps.
There are a few float chargers that are good as they regulate the output current to a low level.
Good luck and ride safe.

2001 Suzuki GZ... | Answered on Feb 04, 2011


http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gz125-2000-cy_model13790/partslist/

Go to the above site and scroll down to the section required (either front wheel or brake) An exploded view with ALL parts is shown with arrows for placement. Cheers

2001 Suzuki GZ... | Answered on Apr 23, 2010


Manuals are copyrighted material, sadly you cannot legally get them from a download. Just stop by your dealer and pick one up.

2001 Suzuki GZ... | Answered on Sep 16, 2009


Hi, Hughsansom and the usual suspects are:
1. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl o-ring.
4. improper fuel level in the float bowl.
5. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
6. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
7. Particle contamination in inlet fitting cavity.
8. Damaged petcock diaphragm allowing fuel to flow through the vacuum line into the combustion chamber.
9. Contaminated fuel tank.
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Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Apr 08, 2019


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
How to Test Your Motorcycle Charging System
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
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Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Apr 06, 2019


Hi, Andrew and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery must have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system relay or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Fuel tank empty
11. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
15. Faulty fuel pump.
16. Faulty pressure regulator.
17. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
18. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
19. Catastrophic engine failure, perform compression test
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Dec 12, 2017


Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, or is dim the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your head light bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chaffed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/lo beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
9. Weak charging alternator/generator.
10. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Apr 08, 2017


Hi, Kayclarke198 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test if necessary, your battery may show 12.5 volts but have little or zero amps and needs to be replaced.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, points/condenser ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. Fuel tank contaminated with ethanol sludge.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Mar 28, 2017


Hi ! for suzuki marauder 125 cable, please visit the website below. If you need more information about a specific electrical issue you can reach me at motor@motorpartstore.com..Good luck and have a nice day.

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Apr 23, 2016


It's probably not the flasher. Check the wiring to the tail light and flashers. Be sure all of the flasher bulbs are good.

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Mar 02, 2015


check the ht lead has not split

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Apr 07, 2014


try and notice the kilometers when the fuel light comes on Remember this.Then ride bike till it conks out Take note of kilometers again Subtract There is your anser

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Jan 12, 2014


if it is only slightly overfilled it will not damage anything but if you
need to drain some then remove the oil drain bolt .

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Oct 26, 2013


I'm sorry to say you may have a big end failure, (the large bearing that holds the connecting rod onto the crankshaft).
The disintegrating roller bearing parts may have entered the barell and piston area. If so then the damage to both parts will be very serious. A very expensive repair job.
Your spark plug may have debris on it that will confirm my thoughts.
Pete

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Oct 04, 2013


IS THE STARTER TURNING OVER FAST ENOUGH, DOES YOUR BATTERY HAVE A GOOD CHARGE, DO YOU GOOD FUEL

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Jun 20, 2013


Your Suzuki dealer may be able to provide you a duplicate key based on your serial number.

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Jun 08, 2013


Brake the lock and then you need to buy a new one

Suzuki GZ 125... | Answered on Feb 06, 2013

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