20 Most Recent 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90 Questions & Answers


Hi, Bennett for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 23, 2019


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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Apr 11, 2019


Hi, Gregory and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
3. Friction discs or steel discs are worn or warped past specs.
4. Incorrect oil type.
5. Weaken clutch springs.
6. New wet clutch plates were not pre-soaked for 24 hours.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Feb 19, 2019


Hi, Lisa for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Feb 15, 2019


Battery is good place to start, have had chg problems on both sides, last Stator i installed was fron Ricks Stators, and I done away with plug in (it had been hot before) used solder and shrink tubing, also had to correct a B problem by running new wire with fuse inline and replaced Gnd wire to eng Hsg this worked for about 1 year, then had an episode with Rectifier/Regulator, Used same brand to replace and extended wiring to mount in front of battery so it could get more air, and it charges better than it ever did, The c90 has some flaws in the ground connectors that i feel caused my problems (corrosion

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Nov 02, 2018


Hi, Alan for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 29, 2018


Hi, Lcbmustang01 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Tobbehem for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Mpoolhd for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Carmelfromla and the usual suspects are:
1. The lifter is sticking in the tappet block.
2. The lifter is contaminated internally and needs to be cleaned.
3. The lifter is damaged internally and needs to be replaced.
4. Excessive clearance between the lifter and tappet block.
5. Low oil pressure.
6. Oil passages to or in the tappet block are clogged.
7. Pushrods riding on solid lifters need to be adjusted properly.
8. Faulty tappet roller bearings.
9. Flat spot on the cam lobe.
10. Broken rocker arm.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Hal before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Is this major prob In the charging system Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder...
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Itsabeachlif for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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How to Replace Stator 05 Suzuki C90 Regulator Rectifier Mammana
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Kduncan45 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.crowitis.com/images/How%20the%20LC-C90%20Charging%20System%20Operates.pdf
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
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Suzuki VZ1500 Owner Manual

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Roy for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki Intruder 1500 Not Turning Over This might be why
Suzuki Intruder VZ1500 Service Manual
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Billh831 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Tachdriver for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Anonymous to perform a proper compression test you need a pressure gauge either threaded or push in. You will get a higher more accurate reading when the engine is at normal operating temperature along with burnt fingers if you are not protected or careful, cold testing works just fine and it's the method I use 99% of the time. If your bike has cams and valves you need to make sure your valve clearance is within book specs. Always blow forced air around the spark plug before you remove it to eliminate any uninvited contamination from getting inside the cylinder. Install the compression gauge, twist the throttle grip to the wide open position and kick or hit the starter button long enough for the engine to turn over 5-6 times. Record the reading and repeat the process 3 times to get the average reading. Single cylinder engines must have a minimum of 100 PSI anything less call a Priest for Last Rites, it's time for a top end overhaul. Multi-cylinder engines must have no more than a 10% difference between each cylinder, for you high- performance ******* no more than 10 lbs. per cylinder. To run on today's fuel most bikes have pistons with compression ratio's designed to give acceptable performance using an 87 octane graded fuel, this means the average compression readings on most bikes will be 125-150 PSI. I have gotten readings of 200+ on some big inch V-Twins and Thumpers but these numbers are rare and require high octane fuel to eliminate cylinder ringing or pinging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Chrscamp2 before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Is this major prob In the charging system Suzuki Volusia Forums Intruder...
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Suzuki Intruder VZ1500 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki VZ1500 Owner Manual

2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018


Hi, Anonymous it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence such as adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, stolen and cut ignition wires, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM such as parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or something very minor, like your speedometer sensor, is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet in places where it doesn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki Intruder VZ1500 Service Manual
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2005 Suzuki... | Answered on Sep 29, 2018

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