Marauder GZ125 98 - dead, no lights, no power, nothing.
My Bike cut out on me on the way to work, afterwards i was unable to get it started again, so pushed it home and got a lift into work. Come to check the bike the next morning to see what the issue is and when i turned it on, no neutral light or lights what so ever, looking like no electricity is getting to it. I have tested the battery, fuses and to short the fuse box to ensure the engine works and ticks over etc, all working fine.
Cant seem to find the issue regarding the lights/neutral etc for the power to not be turning on, any idea'son the issue or a logical step by step to check before taking it to the garage?
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Re: Marauder GZ125 98 - dead, no lights, no power,...
Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, or is dim the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your head light bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chaffed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/lo beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
9. Weak charging alternator/generator.
10. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Suzuki GZ125 marauder that won power on at all Suzuki Marauder GZ125 electrical issue Suzuki GZ 125 Marauder 2005 2007 Haynes Service Repair Manual 0888 eBay OEM parts for Suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
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Bikes are fitted with a sidestand switch and clutch switch that work together. If you try to ride off with the sidestand down (switch activated), releasing the clutch activates the clutch switch and cuts the engine out. Pull the clutch in and the engine will start on the button only to cut out again if the sidestand switch is activated and you release the clutch.
A common problem is a dirty sidestand switch that stays activated even when the sidestand is lifted up. This is because it is situated low down, generally under the bike and will get covered in all sorts of road grime, especially in wet weather.
To remedy this get someone to hold the bike upright, enabling you to get on the ground and locate the switch. This can be done by raising and lowering the stand whilst looking all along the length of it paying particular attention to where it pivots and around the spring. My bike (also a Kawasaki) has a "pin" that is pushed in when the stand is down. If it gets cloggeed with road grime it also stays pushed in when the stand is raised and then cuts the engine off when I try to ride away. A good wipe around the switch area and a good dose of WD40 remedies the problem.
Have you checked the wiring to the lights. Sounds like you have a wire that has shorted to ground. Would also explain your battery drain. I'd check the wiring before the ignition switch since it is draining your battery with the switch in the off position.
You have a bad switch somewhere - either the clutch switch in the clutch lever or the kickstand switch is bad. Of course I had a blast that had a sloppy connector at the back of the key switch that did all of the above too.
It doesn't sound like a carb problem to me. If the bike will not turn over when pressing the starter button, the problem is electrical and tied to the starter solinoid, starter button, starter motor or wire connections.
Check if the battery has 12 volts.
Check the battery terminals if they are corroded with acid deposit. Clean them if they are, by using a wet sponge, wet it with water and let it stay for a while on the terminals this will ease off the corroded acid deposits.
If the battery is ok and if there's no acid deposit on the terminals , thn you have to check the starter motor, it may need to be overhauled.
Better too to check the solenoid switch.
Hope this helps!
Check that the clutch is in, kick stand up, and neutral light ablaze. Then try your start button. When you had it running and hit the button, the starter engaged at a slower speed then the bike engine was turning, which led to the stall. The stall means your starter works. If the starter works when the engine is running then it is wiring. Check your kick stand wiring along with the clutch wires which plug in on the handlle bar or where the clutch cable enters the engine.
If you don't have a multimeter, get one from Radio Shack or Wal-Mart.
Measure the voltage across your battery while the bike is off. Then measure the voltage across the battery while you push the starter. Finally, measure the voltage across the battery with the bike running (if you can get it running).
BTW, when jump starting a bike with a car, LEAVE THE CAR OFF.
in fact only turned over once befors starter was clicking away.
Pushed it home tried again - nothing. Put battery on charger - charged up in 15 minutes - tried to start - engine turned over couple of times then click click click at starter
been out this morning checked all connections and earths - charged battery up - read 13.22v when full charge light came on, tried to start up - turned over several times, getting slowwr then click click. Checked battery reading 12.17v
Any suggestions - is it the battery or what else?,The fact that the voltage drops as the revs increase is very odd. However, the dash voltmeter which I assume you are using is often inaccurate.
Try an alternative battery, at least to see if it starts. You could use a car battery with jump leads.
With a decent battery the charging might improve too.,,,