Hi, Anonymous if you have changed your engine size, compression ratio, fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve, and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" you're not getting enough fuel.
1. Close to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. A wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing and printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/335688-dr200-carb-troubleplease-help-me 2006 Suzuki DR200SE Carb Cleaning for Beginners SUZUKI DR200SE Service Manual https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. https://www.visordown.com/forum/workshop/rg125-starting-problems What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start http://staging.server.sharperimagestintandwraps.com/suzuki_rg_gamma_125_1992_service_manual.pdf https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki
madaming pwedeng posibilidad yan, poor compression, poor spark, poor combustion. Check mo muna yung carburador niya.. dapat ang ikot ng fuel-air mixture e 2.5 turns out. Tanggalin mo yung air box at linisan yung filter nito.. tro mo din patagbuhin panandalian na walang air filter.. kasi pwede barado na ang intake nito. Check mo spark plug at siguraduhing malinis pa ito. Panigurado e palitan mo nalang ng bago.. check mo din na dumadaloy na maayos yung fuel papunta carburador.
kung ayaw mga to, pa-compression check mo para masuri ito ng maigi baka kasi maluwag na yung piston rings or piston nito.
parate naman kung sakaling natulungan ka nito salamat
For what it's worth, I had the same issue with the same bike, just a R1 instead of a R6, it ran poorly at high rpms only, it was the fuel line not being routed correctly under the tank and it was starving for fuel at higher rpm due to lack of fuel, check it out, also check the fuel pressure regulator just to be sure it's got the necessary psi to run properly. Good Luck my friend! Ride Safe!