Motorcycles - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
13. Faulty auto choke or wiring connection.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/onlyrunsonchoke
WHY your motorcycle only runs on CHOKE
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/291948-bike-only-runs-with-choke-on
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/725647-no-brake-light-function-on-my-dyna-low-rider.html https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/291948-bike-only-runs-with-choke-on

Motorcycles | Answered 20 minutes ago | 11 views


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
9. Improper valve clearance (too tight).
10. Check for generated diagnostic codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-tips-to-preventing-backfire-on-motorcycle-exhausts
https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSky1ZfHdhA
https://noobnorm.com/motorcycle-backfire-causes
https://itstillruns.com/stop-motorcycle-from-backfiring-2221631.html

Motorcycles | Answered 2 hours ago | 14 views


Hi, John and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely drained or faulty battery.
2. Faulty regulator/rectifier or high output coil.
3. Faulty power valve, solenoid or installation.
4. Clogged air filter or exhaust.
5. Cracked or incorrect float level.
6. Float needle is not seating.
7. Faulty reed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.triumphrat.net/hinckley-classic-triples/219668-t-bird-triple-wont-rev-over-4500-a.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_ns4TbaHKE
Triumph Tiger Service Manual
Triumph Tiger Handbook
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1996-triumph-tiger-885/o/m147375

1996 Triumph... | Answered 2 hours ago | 17 views


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is the air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components has been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in the process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hondashadow.net/forum/72-technical-discussion/207297-bogging-acceleration.html
engine idles ok cuts out and bogs down when accelerating Kawasaki Vulcan...
Honda VT600C Shadow VLX Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VT600C Owner Manual

2005 Honda VT... | Answered 2 hours ago | 20 views


Hi, David before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic16536
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC2vUe3mE0E
VESPA ET4 50 Workshop Manual
https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem4.asp?M=vespa&T=vespa%20et4%20125-150&Y=1999&L=VE_ET41_125
https://issuu.com/svasana/docs/23744656-vespa-et4-owners-manual

Vespa ET4 125... | Answered 3 hours ago | 16 views


- the speedometer-cable is broken -that happens after some years all of a sudden
- the problem is: it is not easy to fix because you need to remove the instrument panel to get to the upper connector of the new cable going to the speedometer and to replace the complete cable
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2011 Vespa GTS... | Answered 4 hours ago | 886 views


Hi, Colin before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.vn750.com/forum/19-electrical/85241-no-turn-over.html
How to test your starter motor Solenoid circuit Step by Step
Kawasaki VN 750 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki

1988 kawasaki VN... | Answered 5 hours ago | 15 views


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Shifter pawl improperly adjusted.
2. Shifter drum improperly adjusted or damaged.
3. Shifter engaging parts/dogs badly worn or rounded.
4. Shifter forks bent.
5. Damaged gears.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/yamaha-650-maxim-slipping-out-of-gear.3559
http://www.xs650.com/threads/false-neutrals-and-slipping-out-of-gear.2410
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/281606954-yamaha-xj750-xj650-motorcycle-complete-workshop-service $20
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Yamaha XJ600SF Owner Manual

1983 Yamaha XJ... | Answered 5 hours ago | 17 views


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ignition coil.
2. Faulty spark plug cables.
3. Faulty temperature sensor.
4. HISS light not going off.
5. Faulty starter motor.
6. Valves adjusted too tight.
7. Spark plug gap too wide.
8. The fuel line has a vapor lock.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/threads/hot-start-problem.146575
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzqGBrCQvMg
Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki GSX1300R Owner Manual

2008 Suzuki GSX... | Answered 6 hours ago | 13 views


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Low coolant level.
2. Restricted radiator air flow.
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Coolant pump or fans inoperative.
5. Vent hose crimped.
6. The air in the coolant and needs bleeding.
7. Engine idling too long or bike moving too slow.
8. Coolant too old needs to be replaced.
9. Faulty temperature sensor, wiring or connector.
10. Radiator veins clogged or corroded needs repair
11. Cooling system leak.
12. Ignition timing retarded.
13. Spark plug heat range too high.
14. Faulty radiator cap.
15. Carburetor jetted too lean.
16. Damaged top end.
17. Blown head gasket
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://motocrossactionmag.com/10-things-about-radiators-radiator-caps-coolant-overheating
https://motocrosshideout.com/2011/08/19/why-is-coolant-coming-out-the-overflow-tube
Honda CR 125R 2002 Sevice Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda CR125R 2006 Owner Manual

2005 Honda CR... | Answered 7 hours ago | 38 views


Hi, Bill and the usual suspects are:
1. Improper clutch adjustment or not disengaging.
2. Bent shift shaft.
3. Shift fork bent or seized.
4. Gear seized on the shaft.
5. Gear positioning lever binding.
6. Shift return springs weak or broken.
7. Shift return spring pin loose
8. Shift mechanism arm spring is broken.
9. Shift mechanism arm is broken.
10. Shift drum is broken.
11. Shift lever loose on the shift shaft.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.gtamotorcycle.com/xf/threads/stuck-in-6th-gear.146486
How to get YOUR Motorcycle out of Stuck Gear
Triumph Thunderbird Service Manual
Triumph Thunderbird Owner Manual
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2010-triumph-thunderbird-1600/o/m18757

2010 Triumph... | Answered 8 hours ago | 13 views


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/bike-dies-with-lights-help.19064
How to Fully Troubleshoot Your Motorcycles Charging System MotorcycleMD
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1228882/Norton-Commando-850.html
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10118C.pdf
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1002432/Norton-Commando-750.html

1974 Norton John... | Answered 9 hours ago | 13 views


Hi, Ted for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your BSA, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhI2v_j7Qzo
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/PDF_Files/bsa/SectionC.pdf
https://partsbooks.britishonly.com/partsbooks/20-10146C.pdf

Motorcycles | Answered 10 hours ago | 14 views


most probably the fuel gauge sensor is faulty.
You'll have to check the wiring connectors under the cover of the fuel gauge sensor under the seat. (disconnect the plugs, clean them with a brass brush and spray some WD-40 on it)
if that does not help you need to replace the complete sensor.

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2011 Vespa LX... | Answered 15 hours ago | 327 views


I didnt see one on line for free download, (just too rare), but if your interested, theres one for sale on Ebay.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401243023481

Motorcycles | Answered 22 hours ago | 14 views


Hi, Tommy derestrict is a negative term rider's use to express their wish to improve performance on their bike or scooter. Depending on the country and motor vehicles laws some bikes and scooters are designed to conform with said laws and their performance is slightly lower than other countries. All vehicles in the world are designed to perform at 75-80% of their maximum potential, this ensures the longevity of the engine. Derestricting or improving performance is always possible on any vehicle but the tradeoff of engine longevity numbers go down, how much depends on the number and type of performance upgrades. Your local dealership or reputable independent shop are best equipped to provide you with technical data and willingness to comply with your needs.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Lifan 125GY 5 Owner Manual

Zongshen... | Answered Yesterday | 16 views


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
7. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
8. Dirty air filter
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, fuel pump and/or filter.
11. Old dead or bad fuel.
12. A faulty fuel pressure regulator.
13. Pinholes in the in-tank plastic convoluted tubing from the pressure regulator to the quick disconnect check valve.
14. Fuel tank vent system plugged.
15. The throttle body controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged throttle body or intake seals.
17. Clogged or faulty fuel injectors.
18. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
19. Faulty TPS, MAP, CKP, O2, and/or CMP sensors.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Weak or broken valve springs.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. The control module may be in limp mode.
24. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.1000rr.net/forums/track-talk/227569-huge-misfire-any-thoughts.html
https://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/66188-misfire-help.html
https://motodataproject.com/?s=cbr+1000
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
http://owners.honda.com/assets/ownerlink/model/own_man/powersports/motorcycle/2009/09_CBR1000RR_A.pdf

2007 Honda CBR... | Answered Yesterday | 17 views


Hi, Yahyito for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Honda Nx 400 Falcon Information
Honda NX4 sudden engine problem carb dirty fuel
http://www.cypruskidsclub.com/honda_nx400_falcon_repair_manual_download.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda NX500 Owner Manual

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2005 Honda NX4... | Answered Yesterday | 241 views


if you need some scan tool, I recommend you the Motorcycle Scan Tool

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago | 145 views

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