Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
Maybe the "technician" forgot about the possibility of a defective fill valve or control board.
Posted on Jul 11, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
What you can try is to get the machine empty and remove the hose that connects the pressure hose to the switch and blow air through it to make sure it is clear, then tap on the nozzle where the hose connects on the switch to make sure it is also clear.
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
top loader?usually its because your water valve is not closing because minerals have gotten into the water valve.but water would come into washer even when unpluged.another thing can be if when over flowing and u unplug it and it stops fillig/over flowing.your presure switch hose will have come off the water level switch or a mouse chewed a hole in it.its a clear tube thats running from your water level switch.i hope that helps god bless,tom
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
try replacing your water selenoid coming in. remember it isnt a mechanical timer it is a computerized timer, so if the selenoid isnt the problem, it might be the computerized timer. computers are very finicky, pain in the a- -!
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
Posted on May 08, 2009
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