Saws - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Might be a lever, might be a screw which would be visible on the shaft (screw being standard, phillips or allen.) If running into 'it will not fit', please see my other answer

Craftsman Saws | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

It would take an owner to confirm if your unit is normal. I say run it until it dies. Here is some background (but I can't explain the noise.)
The inernal device allowing the variable speed is a varrister (sp?) and may go bad, though totally broken is more likely as in any/many electrical things. The initial full-speed could help prevent a burnout, as my friend recommends for ceiling fans because of the 'strain' starting the fan at low speed (truth or fiction?) I have destroyed one sabar saw by depressing the switch slightly and hold it there while the blade was not moving. Lesson learned.
Actually, a varister has only 2 leads and therefor your speed controller must surely be a little squear block with several wires. Replaceable but I'd wait until it dies.

Craftsman Saws | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

Could be as simple as the blade is the wrong blade for the saw.
Naturally, compare the old and new blades. If you got the unit at a yard sale, the blades included may be the wrong type.
I am aware of 3 types. One has a L shape. One has a narrow top with kind of a collar/bulge near the top. The third has the same shape throughout like a popsicle-stick.
If your blade is type 3, you can file down or grind off part which gets inserted into the saw. This would be the middle of three dimensions meaning the side where the teeth are.
Option number 4; there is a stub stuck in the saw shaft. Can't put two objects in the same space, so you have a challage to get the old stub out. Pounding might work but maybe sawdust has semi-cemented it up there.

Craftsman Saws | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

Not locked

Blade Saws | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

Dewalt Jig Saw

DeWalt Jig Saw MANUAL ManualsOnline com

Blade catch wears out too fast
I loved this tool when it was working but after not that much use the teeth that hold the blade under pressure no longer hold hard enough to prevent the blade from coming out. The mechanism that holds the blade has no catch hole, it uses a few serated teeth to pressure hold the blade in place. Unfortunately, once the pressure starts to lessen you can't tighten it down...

Dewalt 331K 6.5... | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

obviously it's not getting gas. remove the carb and recheck it. some have a plastic piece over the intake and output to keep the interior clean during transit. Forgetting to remove it will cause it not to get gas. Either that or the float is stuck closed, something like that. If the carb is new out of the box, they sometimes have a piece of plastic or something inside the float bowl to keep the float from banging around during shipping ect. Check that too.

Stihl Saws | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

When you do not retract the pliers correctly, the tool jams. It took me forever to figure out what was happening.
After the pliers have been fully extended, opened, and their handles fully opened (which locks the pliers into utilization mode), and then you want to retract them and fold up the Flik, you have to first FULLY depress the silver tabs located in the middle of the black sliders on the outside edge of each handle. When you fully depress these tabs, the pliers will unlock and snap out of utilization mode. You will feel the two handles collapse or move slightly closer to each other. THEN AND ONLY THEN, keeping the tabs fully depressed, you will be able to slide the sliders down toward the base of each handle, retracting the pliers.
If you slide the sliders upward and move the pliers into fully extended position, they will lock in that place. This is lock position 1. And if you then partially depress the tabs, the sliders will easily move back down the handles and the pliers will easily retract. But this is NOT THE CASE once you fully extend the pliers and THEN open the handles fully! When you do this, you will hear the pliers lock again into utilization mode. This is lock position 2. Once in lock position 2, as described above, you must FULLY depress the silver tabs (when you do so the handles will close, fully parallel to each other) and then you can slide the sliders back down. From lock position 2, if you only partially depress the tabs, the pliers will deceitfully start to retract but will begin to jam as you try to slide the sliders to the bottom of the handles. The harder you pull on the sliders, or push downward on the plier tips, the tighter the tool will peanut butter and JAM!
First, understand that the tool gets increasingly jammed when you are retracting the pliers into the handles. Thus, do not try to retract them (push them inside) further. You will need to force the pliers outward, back to their fully extended position. (Lock position 1). The best way I have found to do this is to position two 2X4 sections of wood parallel to each other on the ground, with their 2" side facing the ground. These two sections of 2X4s can be quite short (5" is enough) or long. (Place them so that there is a 1/4" gap between them.). Notice the large rivet at the base of the pliers. It serves as the main hinge for the tool. Position the tool vertically with the plier tips downward between the two pieces of wood so that the large rivet on one side makes contact with one 2X4, and the rivet on the other side makes contact with the other 2X4. Put the thumb of one hand on the top of the black slider, and put the thumb of your other hand on the top of the other slider. You will NOT need to depress the silver tabs, as the pliers are not locked, but only jammed. Now, push downward on the black sliders with your thumbs, equally on both sides, increasing pressure until the pliers unjam and snap downward to the fully extended position. If you cannot push hard enough with your thumbs to unjam the pliers, then you will need to find two items which have a clean 90 degree edge on them and which you can hold in your hand securely and which you can use to push downward on the tops of the two black sliders. You might be able to do this with two large regular screw drivers. In such case, you might need to find another person who can hold the tool vertically with the plier tips in between the 2X4s, while you push straight down on the black sliders. THAT should do it. Refer to the instructions above so as not to jam the FLIK again. Let me know if you find a better way to unjam them, or if you can improve my instructions. Blessings.

Gerber 22-01054... | Answered on Oct 09, 2019

There are for types of circular saws available. 1. Worm Drive - The motor is in line with the blade, delivering enough torque to carve up wet lumber or saw through concrete, which makes a worm drive ideal for framing or major renovation jobs. With the handle farther back, a user can better resist kickback and steer the 16-pound saw through long rips. 2. Sidewinder - The motor sits alongside the blade, making for a lighter (11 pounds or less) saw, which is more maneuverable over a long day than a worm drive. 3. Small Sidewinder - Weight, balance, and handle size are all key features to consider when choosing a saw that fits you. For a slight-bodied person, a small model may be more appropriate than a full-size sidewinder. 4. Cordless - Battery-driven models have increased in size as their power packs have gained voltage, making them convenient tools out in the field or when the electricity's not on. However, cordless models still have limited run times and generate less torque than corded saws. 5. Trim Saw - For finish work or paneling, this is your best choice. blades range from 3½ to 412 inches.

Makita 794520 1... | Answered on Oct 08, 2019

Contact Shopcraft directly to inquire.

Saws | Answered on Oct 06, 2019

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