Top 20 Polaris ATV - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Have you check the injectors ? If anything is coming out.

try resetting codes by removing both battery cables then touch them together away from battery terminals. then reconnect cables and start to see if it has same codes. not a valid code according to polaris code list

On 2002-2004 models, the fuse panel is located on the front frame member underneath the front fender cover. The center cover under the front rack is removed to gain access to the fuse panel as well as the radiator. I find it easier to unplug the headlights and remove the front rack for this.

Test the compression using a compression tester. My guess a valve is stuck closed. A compression test will show this.

T map sensor voltage to high or t map sensor voltage to low

Should be petcock to pump, pump to carb, carb to engine.. and you have a vacuum line that makes the pump work ..usually from carb/intake to pump.

check the plug on the rear axle for the tuff mode! make sure its plugged in

FROM THE WEB>>> Code 27 is "TPS SET ERROR"..take it to the dealer. Throttle Position Sensor reading is off...the newer models check the TPS reading at a startup..and set that as a baseline...if the reading is outside the normal range it throws the code. Try not to touch the gas pedal when starting.

Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body. If it starts then it is a fuel problem. Check the fuses for injection operations. Here is a video that might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rhe2BzIOLA

I am guessing you mean the float is sticking and leaking gas? If so, remove the carb and have it sonic cleaned. The jet that the float opens and closes and should be inspected for wear. In some instances, the float should be weighed for fuel saturation. That may prevent proper floatation in order to fully close the fuel flow once the bowl is full allowing the fuel to continue flowing.

check wiring under vehicle going to diff for breaks

Ive attached a video, but you can do this mechanically by adjusting your throttle linkage(but it may not be enough). I'd suggest making a "stop" or a mechanism to physically stop the throttle from opening up on the engine end at the carburetor or throttle body. You must add something to interfere with your engine being able to "open up", I'd reduce it so that it only opens up 15%-20% which will severely limit performance. Another option is to add an aftermarket Rev Limiter like a MSD unit, or find any rev limiter compatible with CDI ignition and a Single Cylinder, that'll work and you can limit it to whatever rpm you prefer at the turn of a dial! I had to do this to a motorcycle and a drag car and used a simple adjustable rev limiter to keep others from mulling themselves or blowing my motor up!

If the machine is running okay before this happens, lift the seat and side covers , check for loose wires and plugs. 99 percent of time this is the problem is evreything seems to be working and it suddenly dies as your riding it.

Hello, good answers here and i dispute none of them. I just happen to have had the same experience. It baffled me that I kept fouling plugs before I could ride it at all. After quadruple checking everything 10 times guess what it was. As always, it was back to 4 stroke internal combustion engines 101. Onlya a few basic things are needed-,1.) Air 2.) Fuel 3.)!Compression of the mixture of 1& 2, 4.) Ignition if that air/fuel mixture, then finally 5.) Exhaust I had it all covered but knew I had a fuel issue as it wouldn't rev quite like it should've. So I knew it was fuel despite my going through $40-$50 worth of NGK's. It was lean, not enough fuel, but I could smell it when I pulled the plugs every time. Come to find out, the fuel line was obstructed as I hadn't routed it carefully enough and therefore fuel was lacking, I started it, satvthe gas tank on an old workbench with the machine running and I knew it I had it when it revved to the rev limiter with ease. It was a a "kinked" Fuel Line. I carefully placed the tank the tank on and routed the fuel line carefully, revving it as hard as it would go along the way as I tightened the bolts, I took it for a test ride and it was as well as new! ! It's just that simple and that inherently simple sometimes so don't neglect the small stuff. Check air, fuel, and spark, you'll get it. I changed the plugs once more and it ran perfectly until I sold it and it still is as good as ever. Same issue with a GSXR-1000 Motorcycle I had around the sane time, so check it out 10X over if necessary, you got this. If this has been helpful please let me know by clicking the green button and that is the best indicator to me that I am doing what I'm supposed to do by helping others and in all honesty I'm doing this 100% free, I expect nothing for it, I just hope this helps and if so please let me know, if it's not too much trouble perhaps you leave a 5 to 10 word review or recommendation to let others know that this is helpful, if not no issue I hope this helps and have a great day good luck and may this beef most helpful to you and others, it really does get a ride back to the basics about nine times out of 10. I'm not just talking out of my rear end here, I've been an ASE certified master mechanicb and certified in many different areas of automotive and equipment related technology including off-road vehicles and everything from bulldozers to bobcats to Ford and Chevrolet half ton trucks/God knows what all it is really been but a whole lot of cases go right back to the basics. If it's a diesel the Only part of the equation that is different is the ignition station as a diesel engine does not have a traditional ignition system and realize oh nothing but heat and high compression along with the diesel fuel and air mixture which in turn causes internal combustion resulting in the same Process although be in a different way Which is different but there again is based on the same mechanical principles because the heat created Along with the compression of the diesel fuel and air mixture is enough to ignite and propel the Engine forward to propel the drivetrain to do whatever it is you would like for it to do and it doesn't require a traditional ignition system as it only relies on heat so it's slightly bit more involved to diagnose a diesel system but this obviously is it and if so it's still not that big of a deal, once again don't ever neglect the small stuff because it will get you every time if you don't pay attention to the fullest! Again please let me know if I've helped you and, I certainly hope I have, have a blessed day!

what is it doing? you said starting. like is it not cranking over? because you mentioned the charging system. or is it not firing up when it cranks over? because you also mentioned starting system.

what year is it ?

https://www.google.com/search?q=Polaris+wiring+diagram&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjDp-_P7qbhAhXmUt8KHYz8B5UQsAR6BAgHEAE&biw=1600&bih=789

If it's anything like a honda you have to take off all the plastic and more. Best check with a repair manual. Free User Manuals and Owners Guides ManualsOnline com

Hope this helps: https://thequadconnection.com/Manuals/1985-1995%20Polaris%20Atv%20Service%20Manual%20Repair%20All%20Models.pdf