SOURCE: 750 Honda oil leak
Blow-by on the piston rings builds pressure in the crankcase. There is a case vent and it may be partially plugged or the vent hose pinched. The pressure has gotta go somewhere and the sprocket shaft seal is the choice.
Oil goes out with the pressure. More revs = more oil on the garage floor. Check and clear the gearbox vent and stick in a new sprocket shaft seal.
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SOURCE: drive chain goes loose and tight on back wheel turn
No.That was the problem.The chain and the sprockets needed to be renewed.
When you will take, the rear sprocket's base, off the axle check it's bearing.Just put your finger in and turn it slowly to see if it "locks" instantly.It will be nice if you renew it now that you disassembling the chain drive system.
SOURCE: my son has a 1986 honda 70 four wheeler and it
Time for carburator clean up.
The jets needs good blow out with compressed air, both primary and main jets and check the float level too.
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: I have a '99 kawasaki vulcan 800, it has a rubbing
Tighting the bolt very tight is OK but over doing it can collaspe the spacers. It's more likly that if loosing the bolt corrects the problem it's been put to gether wrong. Look at the bike bandit .com for your bikes rear wheel and see if yours has all the right parts in the right order. Maybe the rear brakes are worn out or something in the brake came loose. The chain and sprocket can make alot of niose. Axel not the same on both sides. chain dry or too loose or too tight. Chain gaurd touching chain or the tire. With the wheel jacked up turn it and work the brake to see if the noise changes. The wheel should turn very easy cheak breakes and chain for probelems wheel bears do fail but mileage needs to be high or wet.
SOURCE: Chain & Sprocket turn, but Rear Wheel Not engaging/spinning
The problem is witht he flywheel on the rear wheel assembly. I had mine fixed by a professional last night (at a bike store). Razor uses a very cheap spring that is designed to fail and then to top that off did not use enough bearings as well (12 bearings short out of the factory). My son had also sprayed WD-40 all around the back axle (trying to make it faster). This is bad because, the bearings are packed in grease and WD-40 is a de-greaser. Never get WD-40 anywhere near your back axle!!! Anyway, the flywheel was way easier to remove than I thought. It is threaded onto the rim's axle shaft and just screws off. Once you get the flywheel, off you have to take it apart, fabricate a new spring (my son's new spring came from an old 10 speed's tensioning spring), reset the 3 pawls, repack the bearings, put the flywheel back together, and screw it back onto the wheel. I will post a YouTube video on this later. Hopefully this is enough info to get you started.
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Put the machine on a stable set of blocks/stands so that the rear wheels are clear of the ground. Inspect the rear sprocket for worn, bent or missing teeth, if the sprocket looks o.k. rotate the rear wheels and using your line of sight (line up the front and rear sprockets) see if there is any deviation in the alignment between the two. There should not be any.
if the sprockets teeth are worn to a sharp point then you will need new sprockets and chain, if the are ok you can do two ways, 1st replace the chain,2nd cut a link out and put a master link in 2 links will need to be taken out for this proceedure
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