I've cleaned/rebuilt carb replaced spark plug, flywheel, stator, fuel valve, fuel filter, main (choke) diaphragm with plunger and CDI. When in neutral and I accelerate it hesitates sputters and backfires, but eventually builds RPM. If I raise the choke lever even slightly it dies at any throttle setting.
Is spark nice blue colour.Have you touched timing.Have you pulled plug leads off
Check the rubber boot that connects the carb to the cylinder for cracks. I’ve found cracks in the bottom of mine before and it sucks air in making it run lean
That carb, i believe is a CV carb. Need to make sure the diaphragm is sealed perfectly and the slide works flawless. Are you sure your air/fuel screw setting is correct? Did it do this before the rebuild? Have you checked for leaks at the intake boot? I have found usually the problem is the carb. Reassembly or adjustment if it is truly clean. Good luck.
Your carb. Is bad mite look up it at eBay they have used and or rebuild kits... Good luck
Lever down to choke .pulls plunger up .
SOURCE: Sputters & quits at proper RPM for engaging trans or mowing deck
If the choke has an adjustment point, then adjust the choke to a good overall working powerband. If it still doesn't act correctly, look for vacuum leaks. If it is an option, you may want to install a manually operated choke lever.
SOURCE: Starts with choke but will not run when choke is
I've noticed the Echos are cold-blooded and a decent warm-up time is required. You indicate the fuel mixture has to be somewhat rich to keep the engine running. This indicates the needle jets need tweaking to acquire the proper mix (if applicable) or else the fuel pump diaghram is not functioning properly and needs replacement according to the symptoms.
Here is a link to the site that has the G&D (gasket and diaghram) kit and RB (rebuild) kit part numbers for you. You will need to know your machine's model. Link to determine your carb: http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/APPL_CR2010.pdf
This is the link to determine the part numbers of the kits. Zama has a great site and informative links:
http://www.zamacarb.com/pdfs/QuickKit_CR2010.pdf
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SOURCE: My 2002 V-Star 1100 Classic
G'day.
I can't solve this(there are litaraly hundreds of things it could be) BUT I can give you a way to narrow it down a bit.
I'm thinking it may not be running on all cylinders and an easy way to check is to start the bike from cold(do this test in the first few seconds after starting from cold DONT BURN YOURELF),put a bit of spit on your fingers and quickly touch each exhaust header in turn, to see that they are all warming up equally together.This will narrow down if your problem is related to one or more cylinders.
If one or more of the pipes is cold/er than the others then you know which cylinders are causing the problem.
If you find that this is the case- one or more of the headers are cold then.
Remove the spark plugs-Keep in order.Examine the plugs-used plugs tell a story.How do they look?clean?black & sooty?Are they all the same colour?
Re-fit plugs to caps,sit plugs on metal of rocker cover,press starter - cheack for spark on all plugs.DO NOT HOLD OR TOUCH PLUG/CAPS WHILST CRANKING-WARNING - HIGH VOLTAGE- CAN KILL.
I can also suggest a few common problems that bothered the v-stars/viragos.
They were notorious for open circuiting their spark plug caps on either cylinder.Having the coils tested will confirm this. If you have a multi meter let me know & i'll guide you through testing them.
Air leaking at the inlet manifolds-where they bolt to the cylinder-test this by spraying with wd type spray with engine running-if engine revs change-has air leaks(sucking in wd & affecting mixture.)
They even pop the carbies out at the front some times & **** air there.
The inlet manifolds also have hoses & plugs on them(for checking the carbie balance/vacume fuel tap)Check all these for splits & tears-common depending on the condition of the bike/milage/fuel used.
This will not solve your problem but may help you to isolate where your issue lies.
I hope this is somewhat helpful & I'm happy to help if you need after following these suggestions
Kind regards Andrew Porrelli
I hope that this is in some way helpfull.
Testimonial: "Thanks very much for that information. I plan to continue working on it this weekend, and I'll definitely use these ideas. Take care...Danny O."
SOURCE: I have a 2004 suzuki eiger 400 when it gets hot it
relay for cooling fan triggered by sensor...low oil shut off switch..defect ignition switch or module
Testimonial: "thanks for your help the only thing i got left to check is the oil temp. switch everything else checked out"
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carb still needs cleaning ..eather a jet or air venturi is stoped up. or float setting is off
.carb is running lean..choke adds fuel ..when applied ...
have you looked into rebuilding the vaccume operated fuel petcock or deleting the vaccume port on it ...maybe replace it with a direct on/ off valve ..?
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