My polaris ranger xp 700 2009 has been reasonably good to me till now. it has a hesitation in the motor and it variys to the amount it does it. it can be good for a few minutes or can be hard starting rite off the bat. never was hard starting till now. it acks as if its got a mild case of "emergency brake on" syndrome. i checked the plugs and they seem fine. but after a couple years i guess i should just change them. while driving today it was running fine but seemed like a switch was fliped and then it started to miss and bog down. do you have any ideas.

SOURCE: 1996 Chevy Express 1500 w/5.0 bogging only when warm.

The cylinder 7 misfire is likely a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself.

Typically, the catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream 02 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the check engine light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things - such as faulty sensors in the "emissions loop") a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be.

I do not believe that it is a problem with a valve/head gasket or cam.

SOURCE: 2005 CRF450R Hard to start and wont idle

Hi
I would suggest that you have the valve clearances checked.

Also, check that the carb is clean. Pay particular attention to the PILOT JET as this opperates the idle circuit.

Jon

J.D. Browning

• 2760 Answers
• Posted on Mar 12, 2009

SOURCE: My 1988 Ford Ranger misses while warming up.

COOLANT temp sensor

is bad not allowing engine to run enriched fuel

engine heats up enriched fuel is not needed

proof can be found in fault memory

SOURCE: Husqvarna z5426 running rich and fouling plugs

Sounds like a fouled needle seat, or the float bowl is failing.

Start with:

Pulling your Carb, and cleaning it out. COMPLETELY.
A ton of people think "a shot of carb cleaner, and a gasket kit" is a carb fix. It is NOT, and WILL NOT fix a carb, if the problem isn't gaskets, and shots of cleaner!

Meaning, if she is running too rich, then too much fuel (as you said), and fouling plugs, remember there are only a VERY few things in the carb anyway as it is.

1. Needle Seat
2. Fuel Float Bowl
3. Butterflies
4. Fuel Ports
5. Air Ports
6. Gaskets/Diaphragms.

My advice: (This assumes you HAVE NOT ADJUSTED YOUR CARB OUT OF DEFAULT!)

Pull the carb (Carefully!) and tear it COMPLETELY down (Carefully!). Note where stuff went, take your time, be patient.

When you have everything but the butterfly plates out, run some Gum-Out through each and every port, after you made sure to pull the Float Bowl, and the Needle Valve (and remembered how they went back in there!). Take some compressed air, and follow through (CAREFULLY!) on each and every port. Clean the very TIP of the Needle Valve. Shake your plastic Float Bowl. Does it have liquid inside? She has a hole in her. REPLACE!

If not, then this exercise was cleaning crud/residue that is ALWAYS building up inside carbs in 2/4-stroke engines world wide, every day. NOW do a "carb gasket rebuild".

Note: Remember that sometimes, crud/junk is testy, and stubborn as a mule to get out. Double check any screens above/below your Needle Seat and Valve. Remember that Needle Valves come with solid tips, and some with rubber tips. Regardless, be careful, and clean thoroughly! A Needle Seat that isn't getting closed, is a Needle Valve that is letting WAY too much fuel in!

SOURCE: runs fine for a few miles then starts bogging and

it seems the bike is not getting enough fuel if the choke needs to be on check fuel tap or any in line filters