Acura Cars & Trucks - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

More information please. When exactly does it 'squeak'? Is it a single squeak or a constant repeating squeak that changes with your road or as you rev the engine? Does it happen as you pull away and start accelerating? Does it happen when you hit potholes or turn tight corners. Does it happen as you press the brakes? Comment below with more information and I'll see if I can help you more.

either belt needs to be replaces and or the idler pulley or tensioner is bad.

IT means the computer is seeing an intermittent signal from the crankshaft position sensor. Bad sensor or a wiring issue.

Chk. fuse, there both on same curcit.

how cold -30F +30F +65F like here.(south USA) in the street or garage startup? ever get a real tune in 17years? old fuel?

My man tgs 26.440 malfunc eng contrl dont start

Hi, please look around the engine of your car. You can use a website like advanced auto parts to view what the object looks like and use this image during your search. If you can't find it, you can drive to your local advanced autoparts and let them locate it for you. Thank you.

I am not seeing any inertia switch in the wiring diagrams. You need both the PCM-FI Relay1 and Relay2 functional for the fuel pump to run. Relay2 runs the fuel pump and draws it's control power from Relay1. I suspect that your fuel pump is starting to get weak and the hard bump is enough to knock the pump stater out of alignment enough to slow or stop the pump. Try using a DVM with DC current loop to measure current across the load side of relay2 at a time which the pump is not working (this can be done by removing the relay and placing a wire loop across the load terminals 30 and 87. then place the wire through the loop on your meter- if you are seeing current when you turn the key on and the pump is not spinning, the pump is very likely bad. If you dont see any current, then there could be a fault in the wiring harness going to the fuel tank, or a fault in the wiring inside the fuel tank.

I need to know the location of a 2010 Acura tl crankshaft sensor

If the door skin is creased, you can get a new door skin or pull the dent out. Then you need to look at the hinges and the door stays that are supposed to limiting opening travel. You can replace them.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. You need it scanned with a pro grade scan tool. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+Acura+MDX.+SH-AWD+light+comes+on+solid ..

Sounds like you need to find a competent transmission shop.

HELLO ,This is answered here 1000 + times. lets do 1001. so starter motor is dead silent ,dead, and can not crank here it is one more time. battery good,charged and all 4ends of battery cables not rust, or loose (lugs) not tight,

1. all fuses good skip none , cab and engine bay all.
2. is headlamps dead key on or off?
3. is keyon blower for heater dead on blow high?
4. is cluster dead key on? is IMMO lamp NOT HAPPY,.BINGO.
5. are other things electric vast dead.(all good and bad matter in the electric world. (power tree reasons)
6. Scan the PCM see why ? oops PRNDL failures. , battery failures , fuse feed failures DTC? endless list of possibles and not scanning is never ever wise.
7. Does the PRNDL shifted to Neutral wakes up the starter
8. does jumper cable jump starts work? as see AAA club tow? guys./
9. does hot wiring the starter work (ask) all techs know how.
10. if #9 files the starter is bad ,battery not.
11. if land here, relay may be bad.

kill switch? perhaps the key. If you are talking about fuel reset switch there is not one.

Super easy to fix yourself. Sit in y our backseat and pull as hard as you can on the air cond controls. Pull it straight back and hard enough to make you think it could break - it won't. You'll see the top pops off easily and the bottom needs a little coaxing, just keep pulling it straight back and massage it when it needs it. Once you get that off, there is a little black box right there with a bluetooth symbol on it. The cable is really easy to remove, if you have to use force, you're doing it wrong. There is a little pressure button on the cable that will release it from the unit. That unit is what needs replacing; this is a common problem among MDX's, apparently. Anyway, you can get this part on ebay by searching for "07-11 Acura MDX HFL" without the quotes. They run about $140, it looks like. Good luck!

dead crank, starter silent? does the relay click?" if no relay clicks in DRIVE , shift to Netural and crank, see it works. all causes, 1; battery is dead, do head amps work and with key off and then key on and HL bright and heater blower fan on high same time,? good. 2: battery lugs loose or rusty clean and tight wins. 3: PRNDL problems (try neutral) 4: BCM problem , reset it. 5: bad starter. relay 6: bad starter. if 1 fails jumper cable start the car, or all AAA autoclub tow and jump it. or charger the battery with a battery chargers. or load test the battery.

https://youtu.be/sGzxCCaxDjI Here is the link.

testing 1,2,3 , seems to me park lockout is dead. can you step on the brake pedal key on, and shift all gears PRNDL? do head lamps work key on and off are all fuses good is the battery dead or super weak. below 10vdc, most electronics modules in the car fail (8 to10vdc is the range of *****)most cars. for get keys out for now ,make sure all things on the car work keyin and keyed to on. and cranking works, in Park or neutral if cranking is dead ,we next Jumper cable start the cars engine. or charge the battery even load test it in the autostore or shop you post , no tests done seems to be a dead battery main so charge it. or jump it.

This requires the removal of the door panel, I can walk you through it if you contact me at https://www.6ya.com/thericepatch

Hi, Please first check the manual of your Acura for the description of those wires . If not found, please call Acura at 1 (800) 382-2238 in order to ask them to email you the wiring diagram corresponding to those wires. Thank you.