Dodge Neon - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 7

Where did he get the power from to run the fan,if he just used a hot wire from inside the car it most likely blew the fuse for ignition as the engine fan gets its power from a relay in the power distribution box under the hood as far as the fan goes if it ran with the wire then the engine coolant temp sensor is probably bad

have the fault codes read computers do not lie --they report what they know as fact

maybe fuel injectors partially clogged or wore out .. that and vacuum lines is where i would start the search. then i would start pulling and cleaning sensors

Get the engine mounts checked. A bad mount may allow part of the engine to lie on a body or frame part, allowing engine vibrations to become very loud. Torquing of the engine (under load) can cause the same type problems.

Could be blown head gasket, if so you should have quiet a bit of white smoke also if this is problem.

I believe you should just set the idle higher at the throttle body or MAF so it gets enough air and fuel to keep running. Those butterflies have to be cracked open a little to start with so it's getting enough air to run without you having to keep your foot on the throttle pedal.

Check the OBDII SCAN and look for a MAF sensor fault and replace the fuel pressure regulator. Be careful when working with fuel related repairs. High pressure and Fire hazards exist. Have a fire extinguisher close by. Let the fuel pump pressure bleed down or bleed at pressure tap on the fuel rail. Do not try to crank the engine, While liquid fuel is present. A hydro lock condition will cause engine damage and a fire hazard exist

Have it current ramped tested . Could be the coil driver (transistor ) inside thePCM - engine computer . Look on youtube testing computer driver . Part 2 Diagnosing P2305 P0352 P0351 and P0300 Faulty PCM Chrysler How To Diagnose Check Engine Light Codes P2305 P0352 P0351 P0300

Unless i am mistaken the fuel level sending unit is part of the new pump. Sounds like a weak fuel pump to me or a dirty fuel filter.

you might have a short on th eback of your fuse box.. if not tthen I would start by disconnecting the power wire to the radio. (as near the fuse box as possible maybe even the ground wire too (although it will still ground through the antenna). if the radio will work independently of the fuse box (still with a fuse in the line always fuse any electrical device in the wire route) then you know the radio isn't the problem and thus it is a wire that deals with the radio via the car. .you have to be careful that you don't damage the computer while blowing fuses. if it's the radio then off to the pick a part junk yard..

you need the compressor running to get freon into the system using gauges on a manifold you allow the compressor to suck the gas in to the system until you get a pressure reading at the high side gauge That is the correct amount of gas for the system take it to an accredited ac specialist shop to have the job done properly

The easiest thing to check first is the body ground cable, is it there, is it loose, is it broken? take it off, clean the connections and reinstall it. Do the dash lights or interior lights go out when the engine dies? What do you mean that the speedometer doesn't work right? Does it bounce, Bang going into reverse intimates it has an automatic transmission, and you are driving the car when it shuts down. Des the transmission do anything strange while driving? If driving and the engine shuts down, does the car come to a stop somewhat slowly or abruptly? If abruptly, it may be the transmission going into two gears, stalling the engine. It is most likely an electrical problem that needs more diagnosis. Is this a rust belt car, is there rust under the fuse box or where wires go from front to back in the car, or in the driver or passenger side firewall or floorboard? Does it make any difference if the headlights or parking lights are on or off? Does the car have air conditioning, if so does it make a difference if it is on or off? It may even be the ECU quitting when hot, does the problem go away, or take longer to happen if you put an ice pack on the ECU? Changing spark plugs "and all that" fixed this man's car. rhi4409 Cars Trucks Expert Fixya

seems like a considerable effort when the wreckers/junk yards are full of good units may be the bolts are part of the rubber mouldings have you tried a hydraulic press to push them out

Do you hear any squealing when you drive the car? If so the belt is slipping so yes. Replace it anyway because you don't want it to snap and Replace the battery. Retest the charging voltage you are looking for 12.7v to 13.9 if you don't have a multi meter take it to another garage and ask nicely if they could check the charging voltage most will not charge but you want the voltage NOT pass/ fail or its fine
I recommend this as some battery faults can give faulse charging readings
Adam

Try having a radiator shop look at the transmission cooler inside the radiator to see if it can be repaired. If not, then a new radiator is needed.

You must have the TCM scanned for fault codes, you could have many issue that can cause this problem. Do not guess, it is huge waste of money. Have the proper testing performed.

Get the code. Codes never tell you to change a sensor, they just indicate the problem circuit they are seeing. Only sometimes it is a failure of the sensor. You probably need test equipment like a digital voltmeter. Maybe join a neon forum to find out how others solved the problem.

I didn't see main relay listed? If it cranks good but won't start, I consider the asd relay, important, under hood fuse box. You can check the basics when problem is ongoing. If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, use a gage and check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Ask your friend, "what does that relay control?"

Have you verified that system has been "burped" of air? That the fans kick on? Check radiator hoses for kinks. You can try running without the thermostat to see if that helps and can identify if the thermostat could be a problem. You may need to check your coolant mixture too.
Sounds like you have reduced flow or restriction in cooling (heat exchanger) as it runs fine at cooler temp but can't keep up when it gets warm.
New parts don't always equal working fine parts.

Darn, just sold my '95 neon. I never had to bother with the electronics, it always worked. That da da noise sounds like must come from some relay. Come to think of it, Chrysler makes had a kind of "main relay" called the Auto Shutdown Relay or ASD relay. It's purpose was as a main relay for sending power to necessary things to keep the engine running-like power to the ignition coil, and power to the fuel injectors, and to the fuel pump. This relay is triggered or controlled by the computer. If you have a relay chattering and it is not a bad relay, then could also be a poor positive battery connection, or even a poor ground too. If that chattering sound is from the starter solenoid (on the starter motor), then you either have a weak battery or a poor connection ... or a bad solenoid.