GMC Cars & Trucks - Page 6 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

Dexron V1

The EVAP monitor will run only when the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. So if you just filled the tank you'll need to wait. If its at 1/4 tank or less, add 5 gallons or until it's 1/2 full, then drive.


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The gas cap warning is a specific leak volume detected in the EVAP system. If replacing the gas cap doesnt't fix the problem then a proper diagnosis of the EVAP system (i.e. locate the leak) will likely be necessary.

About the heater core, in the manuel I bought at Auto zone, it gives all the steps and bolts necessary to unloose. The dash will swing out at the bottom, don't forget to remove the bolts under the speaker covers.
R/ Randy

A few common causes are low or dirty transmission fluid, or faulty shift solenoids. The transmission uses fluid pressure to shift the gears, and does so using electronic solenoids. If there is an issue with either of these the vehicle may experience problems shifting or transferring power to the wheels. If these are not the problem then it could be possible that the transmission is having internal faults, perhaps a worn torque converter, or transmission gears, inside of the transmission. As issues like these can sometimes be difficult to diagnose, if you are unsure, I would recommend having a professional technician look ay it.

good for you

open rear passenger door on drivers side and flip up seat mounted on floor under seat

Did they disconnect the battery for some reason? It sounds the the anti-theft immobilizer is triggered. Do you have a way to check for DTC codes? https://www.google.com/search?q=2005+GMC+Denali+security+reset ..

Check brakes pads/disc & check abs wirings

There are some ideas here. It appears to be a known issue. https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+GMC+Jimmy+with+Vortec+4.3+won%27t+stay+running& ..

you can check the transmission fluid if its ok and also the transmission pressure

If your 1998 GMC 4x4 pickup is stuck in 1st gear even after replacing the shift solenoids, it's recommended to have a professional mechanic inspect the Transmission Range Sensor, wiring/connectors, and the Transmission Control Module (TCM) for potential issues. These components can affect proper shifting, and a diagnostic scan can help identify the problem.

Pictures are fine on this website Here a a few Support Brackets. It sounds like it is to hold front end bodywork trim or an under engine splash cover. https://www.google.com/search?q=1988+GMC+Safari+support+bracket .. Picture of a picture below. click the Photos Icon, and click Upload. Navigate to where it is on your computer.

Wiring diagrams. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+gmc+2500hd+headlights+wiring+diagram and https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+gmc+2500hd+headlights+wiring+pinout Plus https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en ..

First have the computer scanned for trouble codes and as for the gauges first check the fuses and relays then if they are good then you will have to replace the instrument cluster because they are well known for being faulty.

Does it crank or not? If no crank then look at the starter or ignition switch. If crank but no start then look at the ignition system. Check for spark at the plugs and also check the fuel pressure. If there is spark try spraying a little starting fluid into the intake. See if it starts and stays running. If it stays running reply back and I will explain why.

The back glass release relay on a 1993 GMC Yukon is located in the fuse box under the hood of the vehicle. The exact location of the relay is usually indicated on the inside of the fuse box lid.

To find the back glass release relay, first locate the fuse box under the hood of your 1993 GMC Yukon. Then, locate the relay diagram printed on the inside of the fuse box lid. Look for the relay labeled "back glass release" or something similar.

If you are having trouble locating the relay or if it has burnt out and needs to be replaced, it is recommended that you consult the vehicle owner's manual or take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic for assistance.

This says either. It would depend on the weather where you live.

1992 Chevrolet K1500 Manual Transmission Fluid

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com > find > 1992-chevr... Compare 1992 Chevrolet K1500 Manual Transmission Fluid brands. ... Valvoline - Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5 Quart (Part No. 881164).

• 1992 GMC K1500 Manual Transmission Fluid

  https://shop.advanceautoparts.com > find > 1992-gmc-k... Manual Transmission Fluid for Your 1992 GMC K1500 · Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5 Quart · High Mileage with MaxLife Technology SAE 10W-30 Synthetic ...

If the operation of your A/C and heat is causing your engine to surge in your 1991 GMC C1500 with a 5.7-liter 350 engine, there could be a few possible causes for this issue:

1. Engine Load: The A/C and heat systems place an additional load on the engine, especially when the compressor engages. This extra load can affect the engine's idle and cause surging. It's possible that the engine is not able to handle the increased load, leading to fluctuations in RPM.
2. Idle Control System: The idle control system, including the idle air control valve (IAC), may be malfunctioning or not compensating properly for the increased load when the A/C or heat is turned on. This can result in unstable idle and engine surging. The IAC valve may need cleaning or replacement.
3. Electrical Issues: Faulty electrical connections, such as loose or corroded wires or connectors, can cause intermittent power supply to the A/C and heat systems. In turn, this can lead to fluctuations in engine performance, including surging.
4. Vacuum Leaks: Check for any vacuum leaks in the A/C and heat system components, as well as the engine's intake manifold and vacuum lines. Vacuum leaks can disrupt the engine's air-to-fuel ratio, leading to unstable idle and surging.
5. A/C Compressor Issues: The A/C compressor itself may be malfunctioning, causing excessive drag on the engine. This can result in surging when the A/C is engaged. A faulty clutch, compressor bearing, or internal component may be the cause.
6. Engine Performance Issues: Other underlying engine performance problems, such as ignition system issues, fuel delivery problems, or worn-out engine components, can contribute to surging when the A/C or heat is in use.

To diagnose and resolve the issue, it is recommended to consult a qualified mechanic or an automotive technician who can perform a thorough inspection of your vehicle. They will be able to assess the specific conditions and components involved, perform necessary tests, and identify the root cause of the surging problem.

Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Transmission fluid
   • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
   • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
   • Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
   • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
   • Rear propeller shaft.
2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Starter motor.
   • Transfer case, if equipped.
4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal
     
     
   • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
   • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
   • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
   • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
   • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
   • The transmission from the vehicle
8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
   • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
4. Install or connect the following:
   • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
   • Torque converter access plug.
   • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
   • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
   • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
7. Install or connect the following:
   • Starter
   • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
   • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
   • The rear propeller shaft
   • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
11. Lower the vehicle.

4L80E/4L85E To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Transmission fluid
   • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
   • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
   • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
   • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Starter motor
6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
   • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
   • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
   • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
   • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
   • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
   • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
   • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
   • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
   • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
   4L80E/4L85E removal
   
   
8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
5. Install or connect the following:
   • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
   • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
   • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
   • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
   • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
   • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
   • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
7. Install or connect the following:
   • Starter motor
8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
14. Lower the vehicle.

Have you replaced the actual switch panel mounted in the door? If everything else works directly with their own switches it could be the switches you use whilst driving.