Question edited for clarity.Question moved to model category.Duplicate questions x 2 deleted. Refresh page to see your post.No, low level fog lights are for use in fog only to reduce glare back to the driver. You have one bulb that need replacing on the offside and you need to turn them off on the lighting stalk. Also as you have the U.K. version make sure you only use the high intensity rear guard light when visibility is 500 yards or less. I live in Canada now and people with European cars (Volvo, Mini, Fiat) have no idea when to use them and blind other drivers on the motorways in clear weather.Page 146 of the manual - Section 4-69.OWNER'S MANUALhyundaimotors.co.ilhttps://www.hyundaimotors.co.il > i10-engThis manual applies to all Hyundai models and includes descriptions and ... Page 8-6 in the Vehicle Specifications chapter of the Owner's Manual.452 pages..
You can't do this even if you did know what you are doing! Good of you to admit it though.
The engine ECU has to be programmed with the vehicle VIN Number and also the mileage. It is done with a $3.5k to $5k bi-directional scan tool computer. It would also be good to get a second opinion anyway.
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those are called TTY bolts, not to be reused.
TTY = torque to Yield.
1,2 liters.
The i10 also came with a 1.2 liter gasoline Euro 5 compliant engine (called the Kappa engine) DOHC petrol
real name (engine)
G4LA made in india.
sorry no books here on india cars.
contact Hyundai dealer in your country and get the service manual.
If your Hyundai H1 2018 model is losing water from the radiator at an alarming rate, even with a new radiator that is not leaking, there are a few potential causes for this issue:
Coolant leak: While you mentioned that the radiator is not leaking, there could still be a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system. Check for any visible signs of coolant leakage, such as puddles under the vehicle or wet spots on hoses, connections, or the engine. Coolant leaks can occur at various points, including hoses, water pump, heater core, or even the engine block itself. If you cannot identify any external leaks, it is possible that the leak is internal, such as a blown head gasket or a cracked engine block.
Faulty radiator cap: The radiator cap plays a crucial role in maintaining the proper pressure and preventing coolant loss. A faulty radiator cap can cause coolant to escape from the system. Inspect the radiator cap for any signs of damage, such as a worn-out gasket or a cracked cap. If necessary, replace the radiator cap with a new one and see if it resolves the issue.
Internal engine issue: Internal engine problems, such as a blown head gasket or a cracked engine block, can cause coolant to mix with the combustion chamber or leak into the oil system. This can result in rapid coolant loss without any visible external leaks. Look for symptoms such as white exhaust smoke, coolant in the oil (appearing as a milky substance on the oil dipstick), or an overheating engine. If you suspect an internal engine issue, it is recommended to have the vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic to diagnose and address the problem.
Improper coolant filling or air pockets: If the coolant was not properly filled or if there are air pockets in the cooling system, it can cause coolant loss. Air pockets can prevent the proper circulation of coolant and result in overheating and coolant loss. In such cases, bleeding the cooling system to remove air pockets and ensuring the coolant level is at the correct level may resolve the issue.
Given the significance of the coolant loss and the potential complexity of the underlying problem, it is advisable to have your Hyundai H1 2018 model inspected and diagnosed by a qualified mechanic or Hyundai service center. They will have the expertise and necessary diagnostic equipment to identify the specific cause of the coolant loss and provide the appropriate repairs or solutions.
That doesn't sound like anti-theft mode, which works normally in two ways, 1. you get no spark, so the engine doesn't start at all, or 2, the vehicle starts and cuts out 20 feet way.
It sounds like you are in Limp Mode, and that signifies an issue that the ECM (engine computer module) deems serious if you go over 10 mph. It is just enough to get you to a garage to fix the issue. Is your Check Engine Light on?
You need a local auto electrician with a professional grade scan tool computer to diagnose the issue. It is probably a failing sensor. With an issue like yours, you can't GUESS what is wrong as there are so many parts involved that could cause it. But Limp Mode is only for VERY serious faults.
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Limp Mode
https://www.google.com/search?q=2003+Hyundai+Tiburon+GT+V6+limp+mode
....
THERE 2, READING,
ONE INLINE IF PISTON PIN
AND ONE 90DEGRESS FROM THAT.
PISTONS ARE NOT ROUND THEY ARE CAM GROUND/MILLED
THE SERVICE MANUAL COVERS ALL THAT.
Hyundai Grace diesel H100
NO YEAR TOLD THE MANUAL IS BY YEAR, AND MODEL AND COUNTRY.
1968 TO PRESENT MADE
GRACE 1986 IN KOREA.
3 ENGINES , NO COUNTRY TOLD AND BOOKS ARE BY COUNTRY AND YEAR GRACE
CALL UP OEM Hyundai, AND BUY THE MANUAL
Diesel engine's:
2476 cc 4D56 I4
2476 cc 4D56 TD I4 (TURB0) YES TURBO'S CAN HAVE DIFFERENT PISTIONS
2607 cc D4BB I4 (China)
Tighten all the bolts to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) in sequence, starting from the center and working outward.
Tighten all the bolts to 70 Nm (52 lb-ft) in sequence again, starting from the center and working outward.
Finally, tighten all the bolts an additional 90 degrees in sequence again.
Please note that it's important to follow the correct torque sequence and to use a torque wrench to ensure that the bolts are tightened to the correct specifications. It's also recommended to replace the head bolts with new ones to ensure proper torque and head gasket sealing.
This is based from my experience working before as a Marketing Consultant in Hyundai Southern Mindanao, Inc.. since I encountered this issue from one of our clients. This is how our mechanic explained, now I do not know if this applies to your Hyundai Sta. Fe 2010 SUV too, but since that was also a Hyundai Sta. Fe (forgot the year model), here's what the mechanic explained.
It's possible that changing the battery in your key remote has caused an issue with your car's immobilizer system. The immobilizer is designed to prevent the car from starting if the key is not recognized, and it can be triggered by a variety of factors, including a low battery in the key remote.
The clicking noise you're hearing from the tail light relay and under the left side of the dash may be related to the immobilizer system. The flashing red light and blinking park lights may also be indicators of an issue with the immobilizer.
One thing you can try is to reprogram the key remote to see if it resolves the issue. This can usually be done by following a specific sequence of button presses on the remote while the key is in ignition. Refer to your owner's manual for specific steps to follow.
If you are hesitant to do this, you may need to have the immobilizer system checked by a professional mechanic.
What exactly do you mean by an "overhaul"? More information please. Which diesel engine is this? The 2.5 litre or the 2.6 litre? What year is your vehicle? Some engines can be different settings depending on the size it is.
I'm assuming this is for the clearance between the valve rockers and the spring end of the valves?
If you're breaking rockers your mechanical timing might not be set correctly risking bent valves or the valves are already bent. Even One tooth out on the timing belt/chain can cause problems. You might need to take the cylinder head off to check the valves.
When you set the clearances the engine needs to be Cold and the cylinder you're working on needs to be at Top Dead Centre (TDC) to make sure the valves are closed. On an inline 4 cylinder engine the cylinders work as pairs, 1 and 4, 2 and 3.
Set cylinder number 1 to TDC. Set the clearances for only cylinders 1 and 4. Using the crank pulley bolt turn cylinder 1 to Bottom Dead Centre, (180' turn clockwise). This should bring cylinders 2 and 3 to TDC so you can set those clearances.
Is the engine burning the oil? (a thicker, more blue exhaust smoke than normal). Burning oil can also be a sign of a blown head gasket or badly worn piston rings.
will millions of transmissions "A/t fail all other the world. endless'
at 250,000 miles if lucky that far. no miles told (car/tranny)
not told this
what does the tranny do (PRNDL)
in reverse and (told)
in DRIVE (yes stick in low )_ but what is rpm now.????? stuck low or screaming in 1st gear . a weak engine will be low rpm in 1st gear.
and low,
no country told and is a super key factor on scan tools , got one?
we can scan all ours (USA) 1996 up every one.
tranny fails hot and cold
tranny filter ok?
if the PCM sees solenoid errors. (scanned) it will not upshift.
if the PCM seen speed sensors fail it can not upshift.
need I go on there are 50 more cause.
but most are leaking seals in the box and the poor atf pump can not handle that.(most boxes die of this latter end of life event)"
internal leaks)
steps 1 to 5
1: fuses good
2: levels good. hot in park,idling
3: scan the PCM for TCM errors.
4: check shift linkage for bad.
5: to the pump port pressure tests PRNDL per the service manual
above asssumes engine is good,is it? not weak as a cat or in silly
TBW limphome .(limited) scans tell this ,why skip scans/?
Question edited for a lot more clarity. Codes are P-Zero (0) not P-oh (o). Spelling also fixed.
Question moved to model category.
Here are your 3 codes with explanations and fixes. There are also a couple of videos, but one is in Spanish.
The key fob does two things quite separately. It open and closes the doors. It also provides the correct security credentials to the vehicle immobilizer. At first is sounded like whomever programmed it only did half the job. It may also be that the internal battery is low. It is a complex error with the vehicle computer systems on a key fob with unknown history and issues.
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Or go into a place that does car alarms and radios. They will have the necessary test equipment and scan tool computers.
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Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category from Washing Machines!
Is the car running okay? If it is, don't worry. Makers make wiring harnesses for all variations of a model and the often have spare connectors with no mating connector for it.
It is impossible to identify what they are, or were unless you have a factory wiring diagram for that specific vehicle. It it worries you, the dealership would know.
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yes, yes and yes, and are all seen here in photo1 below.
lambda II engines. 3.8L
38 steps, +18 more on step 19, and 56 steps just for removal.
just to get the cover off is 31 +19 steps.
the service manual covers all this
a crank locker and cam locker is needed special tools.(or diy made)
https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
DO not mix cam caps up, each are precision made and matched to head exact spot location. cams block head bolts.
gee read the manual first
differ, body but engine is 3.8, and all steps he did 56 steps not show.
he shops step 57 , head off, and coolant pipe off.
https://youtu.be/kIBdNcWm958
the head bolts are TTY bolts set by angle and are never REUSED
TTY= torque to yield.
quote
Install cylinder head bolts.
Do not apply engine oil on the threads or under the heads of the cylinder head bolts.
Using SST(09221-4A000), install and tighten the cylinder head bolts and plate washers, in several passes, in the sequence shown.
Step 1-Tightening torque: 28-30 ft. lbs. (37-41 Nm)
Step 2-Tighten an additional: 120° plus or minus 2°
Step 3-Tighten an additional: 90° plus or minus 2°
Tighten bolt (A) to: 14-17 ft. lbs. (19-24 Nm).NOTE
Always use new cylinder head bolts.
Uniformly loosen/tighten and remove/install the 16 cylinder head bolts, in several passes, in the sequence shown-3.3L and 3.8L engines
the head bolts are TTY bolts set by angle and are never REUSED
TTY= torque to yield.
quote
Install cylinder head bolts.
