Mercedes-Benz 500-Class - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

still need code notify dealer with vin or vehicle and proof of ownership ---99.9 % no charge for codes if they do code entry then may charge

generally is an battery problem low voltage , check the battery

Cooling fans will run after the engine is shut down. The coolant doesn't. This would be a faulty coolant sensor, PCM, or a fan relay that is sticking. You can swap relays and see if it is that. After that, it needs to be to a scanner to read the temps and PCM. If want to take a chance, you could replace the coolant sensor. I can't tell you where it is as I work on to many types of vehicles.

There are a few things effected by heat that could be causing this. Crankshaft position sensor (if your car is equipped since Mercedes started using them sometime around 1991-1992), Fuel pump relay, fuel pump itself, ignition coil (s) and ignition control module (EZL). The only way to narrow down which one it is, is to diagnose the problem WHILE its not starting, so test for fuel and spark during those times and narrow it back from there. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/daniel_4061c3d97c12c4c7

Neutral safety switch, if it starts in neutral.

usually in the fuse box under the bonnet black box about 4 inches wide 9 inches long against the bulk head if the fuse is ok when ignition is on try thumping the top of the dash sounds daft but they have a tendency of sticking mine does it all the time

reach under at back wheels grab the cables an wiggle them that may work if it is a cable issue. if you have calipers in the rear and the cables go to them try prying back the lever in the opposit direction of the cables

Sounds like you have too much fuel going to the injectors. Your car has a CIS fuel injection system that relies on mechanical inputs do decide how much fuel to send to each injector. One of two things has likely happened. Either the plunger in the bottom of the fuel distributor is stuck up, or the diaphragm in the fuel distributor is broken. The first is easy enough to check if you can get the fuel distributor(the aluminum block on top of the engine with all of the fuel lines coming out of it) out. The plunger comes out of the bottom center. You should be able to push it in and watch is slowly spring back out. If not it needs to be removed and cleaned, but that's not just a straightforward job. Look online for videos on fuel distributor repair to decide if you want to tackle this. Diaphragm failure is harder to diagnose. If you get there it might be best to look for a rebuilt fuel distributor. A third possibility is that the fuel return line from the fuel distributor back to the tank is clogged, you should be able to easily push air through the line into the tank after you remove the fuel filler cap. Good Luck.

should be on left lower side of windshield or under the hood on the left strut housing area

Start up is in the starter/solenoid relay area. Not moving in Drive could be trans fluid is too low, it has to be checked when warm(15 mins run) but as long as its well up the stick, cold, it should go. Has it got any safety switch to stop drive if park brake is on?

It will be provided with the original manual/paperwork for the vehicle. If you are unable to find this, you will need to take the car to a dealer. They can provide the code with the serial number and the car's VIN.

Head lights are not fused.

is it coming from area of fuel injectors ?

go to each corner of the car. push the car down and up a couple of times to try to get it going up and down as best you can then let go. The car should return to normal in one movement not bounce up and down. Shocks may be expensive but besides a more comfortable ride they are a safety feature because they keep your wheels on the ground. Bad shocks let your car bounce - if you hit your breaks the car will bounce and on the up bounce the wheels can skid and it takes longer to stop.

at rear of engine ,flywheel 5mm allen key or 10mm socket

replace the fuel filter and the fuel pump . check for fuel pressure . The injectors may be rusted up in the tips and wire connections may be corroded up and not working

could be your starter

have a coolant system pressure test done to determine any leaks. have a compression test done to check for head gaskets and cracks.. Have a flow test done to determine if cores are blocked. Check radiator cap for correct operation. Check return hose to reservoir to ensure it is air tight and allows coolant to be drawn back to radiator when cooling down

post question at peachparts forum, or benzworld.

try new leads and plugs possible coil proble does it do it under load eg when trying accelerate this is a coil or plug problem hope this helps ivan