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Chrysler trouble code U110C on 2005 chrysler town
encrypted software ,dealer only----yes i know you are showing a reading but it doesnt mean anything or if it does it shows a different code .so your snap on or mac tools scanner is a waste of time and money.Nearly all new motors from 2005 are using encrypted software to stop general mechanics like me from working
on Sep 12, 2009
How to replace lug studs on 2002 chrysler town
I'll try to help you. If you are having trouble with 3 out of 5 studs on one wheel you may want to go to an autoparts store or Salvage yard to look at the whole hub. Usually a press is used to remove the bolts so you would be taking off the hub anyway. When you pay for 3 bolts and labor you may be better off in a Salvage yard or parts place for a different hub. The rear hub on front wheel drive cars is like a trailer axle. Much simpler to remove mounting bolts and press in new bolt. But if rear has differential(rear wheel drive) it has an axle shaft. Would be easier to grind and drill out broken stud on car. You can draw new bolt into place by placing bolt through a socket and use the wheel nut to draw the bolt into the hub.
on Jul 08, 2009
500 miles and engine has 'seized'.
The major causes of engine failures can be lumped into four basic categories:
You can probably ignore misassembly as a factor in a high mileage engine failure. But in a newly built Engine or a low mileage failure, it should certainly be considered as a possibility. Some common mistakes to look for:
- Overheating (excessive heat)
- Lubrication (or the lack thereof)
- Detonation (spark Knock)
- Misassembly (opps!)
Incorrect engine bearing clearances. Galling or seizure would tell you bearing clearances were too tight, while fatigue failure would point to excessive clearances.
Incorrect torque on critical fasteners like head bolts. rod and main bearing cap bolts, etc. Head bolts should always be lightly lubricated with 30W engine coil prior to installation, and then torque in the proper sequence to the vehicle manufacturer specifications. Too much torque can crush the head gasket while too little torque or uneven torque can lead to leaks. Too much torque on rod and main bearing cap bolts may crush or deform bearings, or cause the bolts to fail.
Misalignment. If the center main bearings show much greater wear than the end bearings, the crankshaft may be bent or the main bores may be misaligned. The underlying condition must be corrected by straightening or replacing the crank and/or align boring the block. The same applies to camshafts and cam bearings (pushrod & OHC).
Failure to clean parts properly during engine assembly (not scrubbing out the cylinder bores with soap and water to remove debris and honing residue after they have been bored or honed, for example). Any junk that is left in the engine can scour bearings and wear surfaces.
Failure to lubricate parts properly during engine assembly. Camshaft lobes require a high pressure engine assembly lube that will stay put until the engine is started and oil reaches the cam. Bearings and cylinders also need to be coated with oil or assembly lube to prevent a dry start.
Hope this will help you understand why your engine failed with only 500 miles, Good luck and hope you enjoy your new Town and Country soon.
on Apr 20, 2009
Radiator fans don`t work on town and country van causing engine to overheat
The radiator fan relay is located behind the grill on the driver's side of the vehicle. There is no relay in the distribution box. There is a 40 amp fusible link, however, in that box.
The relay (behind the grill) works in conjunction with the coolant temperature sensor, the A/C high pressure switch, the transmission temperature sender and the PCM. This relay will run the fans from 30% to 99% of full speed based on the signal coming from the PCM. This is all according to the official Chrysler shop manuals that I have for my 2005 Town and Country van.
on Nov 15, 2018
2003 town and country van the front left brake locks up while driving a short distance or longer and the steering wheel is hard to control.
Can you repeat this brake failure while parked and wheels off the ground? In what way does the front left brake lock up? Is the brakes dragging on its own or does it lock up as soon as you touch the brake pedal? With the vehicle raised, will the brake lock up with it in park and the van is running? Can you confirm that the only time the brake locks up is on short or long trips? You may need to send the van in for diagnostics. You may want to contact your local dealer and ask if there is a Recall, TSB or campaign for this issue. You will need to narrow down your search and see if maybe it is something you missed. From your description I might look for debris in the line somewhere between the ABS module and the front left brake caliper. Remove, isolate, and blow out the suspected line, at both ends. I doubt it applies to you but to be thorough. Did you check to see if the brake pads were contaminated with oil or grease? Are both sides of the brake rotor clean and free of defects? Are any brake warning lights on? You may want to see if any codes were stored in the ABS module. Please write back with any questions or new information.
on Oct 06, 2018
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