fill fluid have a friend help,have them hold break down open bleeder then close release brake start on closes wheel to farthest from master dont let run out fliud or youll stat over,if no friend attach hose to bleeder put it in a container with fluid in it open bleeder and pump break slowly a couple times close breather
Ours was doing the same thing until I switched over to full synthetic oil. It does still tick on startup if it is colder than -10 degrees Celsius and it is not plugged in. If you figure anything out please let me know.
I couldn't find a video specifically for the Journey, but here is one for a Durango:
There is a video for timing belt on the Journey - they likely have to open the cooling system for that so it could be helpful too.
Belt replacement specs of all or most cars are on top of the radiator, somewhere in the vicinity or even on the inside of hood when you lift it or a pic on the frame, look for a lil pic, if you cannot see one call a junk yard in your area or the dealership and have them copy it out of the owners manual and email it to you or even a parts store hope that helps ya
It s probable the window switch, especially on driver's side because its the one that's used the most. Switch replace involves removing door card and minor mechanics under it. U-tube has a video on the subject, if you're not up to repair, contact local repair shop or dealer.
Heater cores can be very challenging and time consuming to access. I suggest you don't even start until you have a good shop manual for that model, a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with short and long extensions and 1 or 2 u joints and lots of patience working in tight areas
IT should be available from the dealer spare parts. failing that get one from a wreckers that handles your make of vehicle/ Lastly there are hose specialist shops (hydraulic hoses) that sell a range of brass fittings that will be useful for what you want.
Take it to the dealer to do that. There is a special measuring device that attaches to the lights that tells the mechanic which way to turn the adjustment screws. You cannot adjust them in your driveway .
Most likely there is still an air pocket in the heater core. These can be a little difficult to purge the air out after working on the cooling system.
Typically all that needs to be done is run the engine with the radiator cap off. Once the engine is up to normal operating temperature snap the throttle several times. Top off the coolant as necessary. And replace the radiator cap.
I usually have the heater set to full heat and the blower set to high when I do this . If all the air is out of the heater core it should blow air hotter than 150 degrees. If there is still air you should be able to feel it get noticeable cooler when the engine is at idle and a lot hotter with the RPMs raised.
Go back to the shop. Have them go on a test drive with you. Make sure you both hear the noise. Confirm that the noise is air in the heater core. They shouldn't have any problem rectifying the situation.
one last thought. If the noise goes away for a couple of days after they purge or burp the air out of the system than there may be a more serious problem. If the engine overheated it is possible that the head gaskets have failed and the air in the cooling system is actually exhaust from the engine.
Keep in touch and let us know how everything turned out. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa