2009 Mitsubishi Outlander - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I believe they don't have one

It needs to be pushed forward to release it from the join

Possibly a bad wheel hub assembly. Take it to a repair shop asap. If this is the case it is very dangerous to drive.

Follow the link for full instructions. Repair Guides Radiator Removal Installation AutoZone com

use a scan tool

I got the same trouble, launch shows Air Flow Sensor, Fuel Pressur switch. Ireplace both few hours OK but again same trouble.
GDI got a common truble its high pressor fuel pump.
check fuel pressor if its low thats the prob
bye

reley needed mite be

Is your key bent or somehow worn down a bit? Try another key if you have one or turn key over a try again. Also rock the steering wheel left and right while trying to turn key

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuintjJ05iA

I have an '04 Outlander and the manual slap stick stopped working. I also noticed the Drive light was not on when in auto drive. This is a common problem with this model and a relatively easy fix. Tools you will need are a small flat head and medium cross head scredriver, solder gun and electronic grade solder, small heat shrink tubing. Remove the entire center console - start at the rear by removing the 4 philips screws in the center arm rest compartment, remove the cover plate underneath the hand brake and the 2 side panels on either side at the front. Remove the shift knob (2 screws behind the small cover plate on the front of the knob - remove with small flat head screwdriver). Remove all remaining screws and the rear section, then slide the center section over the handbrake followed by the front section. You will see a small switch on the shift lever with 3 wires (Black, Blue and Red). Most likely one or more have become detached, at this point it is best to unsolder any that are still attached because they will likely break in the near future! Remove any old solder and wire from the 3 contacts with the solder gun on the switch and tin each with fresh solder. Strip about 1/8" on each of the 3 wires and tin each with solder. Slide about 1/2-3/4" of the heat shrink tubing onto each wire. Solder the wires back to the swtich in this order: Black - top Blue - center Red - bottom Start at the top and work down, and after soldering each slide the heat shrink tubing over the solder joint and shrink by applying the solder gun - this will provide better mechanical support and help prevent future breakage. Reassemble the center console in the reverse order of removal - make sure you have no screws left over!! Good luck - hope this helps.

Your Radio went bad. Happened to my Honda Radio when it was 6 years old.....

check your oil...

It sounds like one of your CV (constant-velocity) joints is going bad. This is common on front wheel drive vehicles. The CV joint allows the drive axle to pivot as you turn the wheels. Over time the protective boots crack, the grease leaks out and you end up with the knocking noise you describe when turning while accelerating. The dealership should easily be able to inspect the CV joint boot and diagnose the CV joint.

you need to have the ecu read abs fault can lead to engine not starting.as signel from abs is not getting to the ecu.

check the remote battary if not good change and check the signal to unit olso

it is worht checking the fuses and also keep working the hazard light switch as they are not used that often they tend to get sticky on the con tacts and that will knock out your indicators as well if they start to work after working afer working the haz switck then change the switch

Probably. Cheap place to start.

might be your lifters, or a bad connecting rod bearing

not as such but the CPU will put it in limp mode which is reduced power and speed

I would check the inside of your oil cap. if it has a white or milky residue texture you have a blown head gasket or head. have that checked. good luck