20 Most Recent 2013 Honda Ridgeline - Page 8 Questions & Answers

This may sound obvious but have you checked the battery? Batteries are generally considered old if they are over 5 years old. A battery can hold a full charge but struggle when put 'under load'. Starter motors use a lot of power to work. Get it "Load Tested" to see if it needs replacing.

I can provide you with some general guidance on how to find the vacuum hose routing diagram for your 1986 Honda Accord.

1. Vehicle Owner's Manual: The owner's manual for your Honda Accord may contain a vacuum hose routing diagram. Check the section on engine specifications or emissions control to see if the diagram is included.
2. Underhood Sticker or Decal: Look for a sticker or decal on the underside of the hood or near the radiator support. Some vehicles have a vacuum hose routing diagram printed on this sticker for easy reference.
3. Repair Manual: A comprehensive repair manual specific to your Honda Accord, such as a Haynes or Chilton manual, will often include vacuum hose routing diagrams. These manuals provide detailed instructions and diagrams for various systems in your vehicle, including the vacuum system.
4. Online Resources: Search for online resources or forums dedicated to Honda Accord enthusiasts. Many online communities have members who share diagrams, tips, and information related to vehicle maintenance. These resources can be helpful in finding the specific vacuum hose routing diagram for your vehicle.
5. Dealership or Mechanic: If you're unable to find the diagram through the above methods, consider reaching out to a Honda dealership or consulting with a qualified mechanic. They may have access to technical manuals or specific diagrams that can assist you.

Keep in mind that vacuum hose routing diagrams can vary between model years and engine configurations, so it's important to find the diagram that matches your exact vehicle specifications.

before replacing the solenoid ck this out.... https://www.engine-codes.com/p0748_honda.html#fix

try rechecking the charging system. If it started one day and then the next day it didn't it might mean it's charging as it should. Check the alternator to be specific.

for the whole car. are you dreaming? buy the service manual like we must

Sure, I can help you with that. Here are some possible reasons why the AC condenser fan in your 2008 Honda Civic is not working:

• The fuse is blown. The fuse is responsible for providing power to the condenser fan. If the fuse is blown, the fan will not be able to operate. You can check the fuse by looking at it in the fuse box. If the fuse is blown, you will need to replace it with a new one.
• The relay is faulty. The relay is responsible for sending power to the condenser fan. If the relay is faulty, the fan will not be able to operate. You can check the relay by looking at it in the fuse box. If the relay is faulty, you will need to replace it with a new one.
• The fan motor is faulty. The fan motor is responsible for turning the fan blades. If the fan motor is faulty, the fan will not be able to operate. You can check the fan motor by listening for any unusual noises or vibrations. If you hear any unusual noises or vibrations, then the fan motor may need to be replaced.
• The wiring is damaged. The wiring that connects the condenser fan to the fuse box or relay may be damaged. If the wiring is damaged, the fan will not be able to operate. You can check the wiring by looking for any signs of damage, such as cuts or fraying. If the wiring is damaged, you will need to repair or replace it.

If you have checked all of these possible causes and you are still having problems with the condenser fan, you should contact a qualified mechanic for help. Here are some tips to help prevent condenser fan problems in the future:

• Have the condenser fan checked regularly. This will help to ensure that it is in good working order.
• Avoid overloading the AC system. This can put unnecessary strain on the condenser fan and other components.
• Clean the condenser coils regularly. This will help to ensure that they are able to dissipate heat effectively.

Fuel cut of switch. https://www.google.com/search?q=2020+Honda+Pilot+Location+of+inertia+switch ..

ask Honda for it. prove ownership to them./

all cars can stall running for up to 50+ reasons a running EFI engine is not simple, at all like 1960s.. bad batteries happen even lugs loose/rusty the 15 year old battery is bad, or is 2nd one now dead. as the mostly all are over 7years, 10y is max max. well gee, we do tests not gue$$ is this a guess only post. not told why a shop fix is not in the cards? what's the goal here, buy tools and test or guess? jump the car, it runs. then see charger lamp in dash failing <<< THAT"? here is guess list, (my pack of lies,grin) 1: battery is bad if over 6 years old easy. 2: fuses blown even a 25cent fuse, blown. for sure to ALT. 3: battery lugs a mess. 4 ends. 2cables, checked. for mess. 4: alternator bad. or installed wrong , battery connector and 2 to or more fuses to it blown rendering the new good alt , born dead (in fact just offline) low battery voltage causes all computers on the car to go mad and random fails and lies. even DTC lies told 10vdc blow that they all lie. my battery has date code and 2016 stamp is no good. learn to find and read battery date codes. or keep records pretty much the first thing to fail on any car is that , the battery. they are short lived, 6 to 10 years it is for sure the Achilles heel of car. (the chain with one weak link bingo battery. when you hear starter motor slow down at 6 years old bingo a huge clue to the ears, is that. any shop can find this is 30min work. one can take any battery out of dead car and get it load tested in most autostore for zero cash. it must be charged first then load tested. one can take a good battery from car B to this dead car and drive to a shop close, under 30mins. drive.day time head lamps off. then they test alternator.(using tools) and all fuses good.

have vehicle scanned for trouble code [s] and go from their

Sounds like you need a door lock actuator for the drivers door.

no country told, but ours, (USA) has this car starts and drives ok, and all electrics work , headlamps and parking lamps? blinkers dead on all 4 corners of car , not told, for all.? hazards fail too ,all 4 corners/???? all fuses good? scan the OBD2 port under dash for errors? the cluster 2lamps Left and right dead?, and the sounder beep dead too (turns)? the turns module is part of under dash,fuse box. nobody installed wrong lamps outside corners of car , right? does rear of car have trailer hitch hacks? (shorted) fuse9 and 15 under hood not blown? fuse 5 under dash driver box fuses good??(kick panel) check for damage on all 4 corner lamp socket/wirescheck for damage not repair from previous collisions.to wiring and lamps. and inspection is first'wiring and fuses. as seen here

FR-v car, no year told. 2004 to 2009 sold CEL = check engine light (OR SES) means needs service, in shop. per your lost users guide VSA is veh.stability assistant (no this is not it) <<< it is a distraction or battery is weak are you asking for wild guessing or how to test using tools. 1 or the other???? will not crank at all, (starter dead)? or cranks fast but will not start.? ???? which is it, 2 huge differences in diagnose x10 you stated symptoms and no real question asked./????? we can not see or hear the starter on your car fail or not. and matters huge. if the starter was dead. the battery lugs are rusty and loose we clean them and tightening them. any battery that old is no good. or 2004+6= 2010 died, and replaced then failed again in 2016, and replaced, and 2022 is bad again. see my math? 6year life on battery 10 is max my 50 year seen experience. working, Im retired for 13 years now. older than dirt. no year car told no year battery was last changed out and sure was! if the battery is weak it will not crank or does and all computers on board go mad. they lie to you. lacking proper battery voltage. if the starter dies clean lugs first if no cure, jumper cable jumps start it ( or call AA autoclub tow ask for JUMP) and dash charge lamp must go out runnning

i think your thermostat is siezed this happens after some time due to corrosion

0175 = too rich bank 2 0304 = misfire on 4 the rest is the same on 2,3 & 0 means random misfire. Check for air leaks.

You have to either clear the codes with your scanner or drive for multiple "drive cycles". Those codes are stored in the ECU now so even if the sensors are working okay the ECU understands that some glitches are temporary but still needs to be "told" it's been really fixed. The exception to this is doing drive cycles but I only think these apply to emissions related codes and yes, those fall under emissions (the engine isn't operating at the optimal condition for emissions). An example of this is a loose gas cap. After you tighten it properly, the owners manual or a dealer will just tell you "keep driving it, it will go away", i.e. drive cycles. Yeah, or you could go to Autozone and have them clear it or you.

2010- to 2010. in what country,, ?????? what engine? L15 SOMETHING. no vin told so all that is unknown. my wild wild guess is CVT box is sick, TRANSMISSION needs service, get some, are you in JAPAN WRITING IN ENGLISH,????? WIKI SAYS JDM , JAPAN DOMESTIC MARKET CAR. ???????????????

PODR?A SER ALGO RELACIONADO CON LA PISTON O EL REFIGERADOR DEL MOTOR

if you drive any car this new. and with head lamps on and see the lamps dim and the alternator is failing EDL and all. even fan belt loose. battery lugs loose. the 14vdc (typ) batter voltage falls fast to 12vdc then near 10vdc. lamps now dim the EFI starts to fail. (its computer, and will not run below 10vdc. or even misfires) or under injects, and well a list of random things. all wrong. test the battery first many a bad battery can cause horrible crazy things as you bounce down a road. and the battery cane make the alternator or eld go nuts. 13vdc to 15vdc is normal at the battery lugs engine running' own a voltmeter to learn this? misfires has many causes, above is but 1 of 50 above is battery charger failures. the 2003 car we an scan the PCM to see errors too cars this old tend have 2 or more hard errors. but all ELD tests are in the book, to read;. ELD is like smart device the helps keep battery from going dead. ELD prevents overharge and under, better than most cars made. the ELD is a ammeter,(converter) the PCM asks over and over (looped) what does the battery see (here) current. so that allows the PCM to control the Alternator in a better way,to not stress the battery and get a longer life. the problem we see is kids with 2000watt bridging ear killing watts added, and the ELD does not see that current (HACKED IN by owners)) so the battery is not properly charged and goes bad fast. so don't by honda's(sorry) or rip out the stock alternator and stand alone version installed.. (or ask honda how to do it right?) those are the problems , if still stock ignore my AMP'd up hacks.

erratic up and down idle is usually either a faulty idle air control valve, located on throttle body, or vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses by spraying each one with carb cleaner while engine is idling. If idle smooths out when one is sprayed, then replace that vacuum hose. If all are ok, then the IAC valve is bad. This is replaceable by itself. But before replacing it, try pulling it and cleaning the ports out of any carbon deposits It runs about $144.