2014 Mitsubishi Outlander - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Power steering pump failure Noise}n then ceased (smoke-belt rubbing) therefore no power steering. Replir/replace pump.

Check your Owner's manual for fuse location. You may a fuse panel under the hood as well as under the dash - driver's or pass. side.GL,Td

Hello

The Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

The sensors are sensing the tow bar, either remove it or disable the back up sensors.

SRS means Supplementary Restraint System or as an Air Cushion Restraint System (ACRS), if the light is on, it is most likely a computer response telling you something is wrong. The SRS refers to the deployment of your airbag in an accident.

you sure you ran out of fuel or the fuel pump has gone bad? try spraying a small amount of starting fluid in the air intake hose and see if the car starts for a few seconds. if it does then the fuel pump is bad.

u need a magler valve sencor

"SRS" stands for: "Supplemental Restraint System". The primary restraint system are the seat belts / shoulder belts. The SRS consists of the air bags that are located in the steering wheel and dashboard that help protect the driver and front passenger(s) in the event of a collision. Additional airbags (often located in the side pillars between front and rear doors) help protect from side impacts may also be present - depending the year and model vehicle you have. An SRS light that remains on in the instrument cluster indicates that a problem has been detected by the on board computer. It normally should not interfere with the operation of the vehicle, but some or all of the SRS components may not work when needed or may activate unexpectedly - depending the type of problem with the SRS.Many states that require vehicle safety inspection at regular intervals may fail a vehicle with an SRS issue. Be aware that these systems may be costly to repair. The auto dealer and most modern repair garages have the technology to obtain the SRS problem data that is stored in the on board computer, and should be able to provide you with more information about the nature of the problem and approximate cost of repair.I hope this helps & good luck!

Dear Sir:Reinstall your operative system again, calling your company supplierindicating the facts.sincerely. God bless you

You generally only get white fuel smoke from a diesel when one or more cylinders aren't firing. If it were injecting more fuel than can be burned into a cylinder that is firing you'd get black smoke. You can get gray smoke from a cylinder that is firing cold or late, but blue obnoxious smoke is more common with late injector pump timing. Dirty/failed injectors also generally make a rude blue smoke.

Run a can of Diesel Kleen through it. If you can't get it where you are call a local truck service and ask what they recommend for cleaning the pump.

Check and keep watch on the oil and coolant- white smoke from a warmed up diesel is usually coolant that is getting into the combustion chamber, typically from a failed head gasket or cracked head/block.

If you see any oil floating on the surface of the coolant, or if the oil starts to look milky, this motor must be serviced and the issue found or it won't last long.

lp

is the heater plug jumper rail earthing out ? dissconect the live feed off the heater pulgs and see if that helps.

Make sure the ****** fluid is at full level, there might be a problem with the ****** pump or crank shaft spacer.

In the body shop that was just about what we would have to do when there are no visible screws and it was the first time removing a panel in a new type of vehicle.

Those panels are usually held in place with some metal clips (sometimes plastic molded into the panel) that snap into slots in the body. You can lightly pull and get a feel for where there is reistance. Slide a thin tool like a paint stick (or something stronger) and use it to pry up in the area of resistance. You may also be able to pry up and look under it to see where the clips are.

• Hi, I can help.

• Open the door and look on the inside of the door where the mirror mounts from the outside. Often times Mitsubishi's mirror access panel is behind a corner of the door panel and it is just a little corner piece that pops off.

• Follow these steps ---

1. You will either see some screws right away or a little panel that will have a screw to remove (some of then you just gently pry off with a flat tool. If no screws the gently pry off.)
2. Now you will see a wire harness that is coming down from the mirror. Gently lift it up until the connect is reached.
3. Remove the connector and don't let it drop down. Anchor with a little duck tape.
4. Now you will see three nuts that need to be removed ( I think 13mm ).
5. Make sure you support the mirror as you are removing the last bolt.
6. Now wiggle and jiggle the mirror out and pay attention so the harness comes out freely with it.
7. It's a basic reversal to install the new mirror.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here and I will respond to you.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

check the flasher unit. most auto part stores will assist you

Are you going by the gauge that says fuel economy on the dash, if so try to zero out the gauge or reset it ,this will recalculate the reading.

There should be a manual pull probably inside the trunk at or near the area of the fuel door.
If you have a manual, the location would be shown in it.
Gary

maybe dead rat in air vent or air intake,fan,etc.

Its a good idea to change plugs every 50K miles...so go ahead.
By looking at the plugs you can check engine's health.

With no codes...I'd suspect a fuel leak somewhere...

Hope this helps...