2014 Mitsubishi Outlander - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

try using a sypion hose or a small hand fuel pump to get it all out I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/john_2c7bb9c157d0baa8

prob has little to no clutch fluid, to check this open the bonnet, in the engine bay next to the brake master cylinder there is a round clutch master cylinder, unscrew the cap and topp it up with brake fluid.
If the system has run dry you may need to bleed the system, if not completly empty should be able to pump it a few times and will come good.
If this is the case there is a leak somewhere...

Could be a wiring fault - yes. But if you mean that the ignition light won't go out after removing the key I would say its most likely the ignition switch itself.

sure ur problem with ur starting up key hole or its wiring try to check it my friend

Are you mechanically practical? It can be a hard one as the cambelt runs the water pump and you have as well to replace the silicone tensionner as well? If you are ok in doing these i can send you some instructions from a manual.
Email me: [email protected]

Simple answer, no, it will not most likely cause any increased wear to your engine or transmission. Yes, it is normal for the engine to rev while climbing a hill while in cruise control.

The cruise is designed to be used on flat (or semi-flat) stretches of highway at 55mph or higher so you don't have to hold the fuel pedal the whole time and your foot doesn't get tired. The cruise control system will try it's best to keep your vehicle rolling at the set speed, increasing/decreasing the throttle to compensate for changes in engine load.

If you are driving with cruise on, try lightly putting your foot on the pedal and you might notice that the system will actually move the pedal itself. If you are in cruise, and you come up to a large hill, try putting your foot on the pedal and getting it up the hill on your own w/o cruise then resetting cruise once you are off the hill.

Also, cruise is not supposed to be used in moderate/ thick traffic or on country roads with a lot of rolling hills. The cruise control system is a "dumb" system meaning (not that it's pointless) but it will only change the pedal as the speed changes and it has no idea what's coming up next, even while you are already on the hill.

So, it is normal operation of the cruise control to try to compensate for a hill by constantly revving up the engine and letting it fall back down to try to keep moving at the exact same speed you set it for. If this is a bother, you can always use your foot to hold the pedal while climbing the hill normally.

Don't worry, it won't cause any increased wear and tear on your vehicle. I hope this helps. Good luck and don't forget to rate! Thank you!

Blowing smoke when starting is not a problem this accours on all diesel engines

have you checked the exhaust gas recirculating valve. if this is sticking , you will experience sluggish engine operation, and poor, if no turbo boost.

yes its real easy for you to doIt just unbolts there is a cap lift the cap remove bolt and replace/ Please rate my response thank you very much

hi you need to change the fuel pump seals, whats happening is there letting in air causing engine to cut out a commom fault with this vehicle.

First thing to check are the engine's thermostat. It should open around 190 degrees. Does your instrument panel have a coolant temperature gauge or just an idiot light? If the gauge is in the middle third of it's sweep, the thermostat is OK. If the gauge reads low, have the thermostat replaced.
The second item to check in in the HVAC box below the dashboard. If the Fresh air/Recirculate door will not shut, cold outside air is continually mixed, which will degrade heating.
Charlie

The only real thing that can do this is the speedometer

ok there is a few options but the best way to know is to have the computer on it tested more than likely its the computer

tyres to big or suspension leaning slightly

If your pedal is dropping to the floor and not returning. I may have a solution.
Your car is equipped with a hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinder. These release the clutch pressure plate to allow for shifting gears. If either or both are leaking then hydraulic pressure naturally can't be transmitted to the clutch release fork.
1st: Check your clutch master cylinder reservoir. It is located beside the brake booster. Is it low on fluid?(Takes DOT3 brake fluid) If so, you can investigate further by removing the mounting nuts and looking at the area where the piston rod(the rod that connects inside the car to the clutch pedal) enters the unit.
2nd: If all's well there, you should check for leakage at the slave cylinder, mounted on the side of the trans. This is easily enough identified, as it will have steel tubing connecting it to the clutch master cyl. You may see fluid leaking from the cylinder, or if you pull the rubber housing boot off there may be fluid collected within.
3rd: If any of these conditions are present, naturally parts replacement is the best solution.
Now my professional recommendation is that, if these conditions exist in either component, you should replace both with NEW parts(not scrap yard parts). The reason for that is, typically if one of the two goes bad the other is going to fail very soon, or has failed at the same time. The internal tolerances of these cylinders are pretty tight, if you over extend the pistons within, beyond the range of normal use, the unit has been damaged.
If you choose to replace these yourself, you should be able to purchase these components readily aftermarket, and installation isn't all that hard. You'll need a metric socket set to remove mounting hardware, A metric (believe to be 10mm) line wrench or a box end wrench will suffice to remove hydraulic lines. You'll have to disconnect the clutch pedal from the master cyl. rod under the dash. You'll need the ability to raise and support the vehicle properly enough to access the slave cylinder on the trans. Once the actual parts have been replaced, you'll have to bleed the system of air. This part usually works best with a helper. You can start by opening the bleeder orifice on the slave cyl.. After filling the master cyl. with clean DOT3, allow fluid to run down and out the bleeder orifice. Close the orifice, check fluid level. Have your assistant depress the clutch pedal fully. Open the bleeder to allow air to escape and then close it. Repeat this process till no air, but only clear (no bubbles) fluid comes out. Remember to close the bleeder BEFORE your assistant releases the pedal. When you have clear fluid check for proper clutch disengagment and gear shifting.
I hope this info helps.

are you sure you had installed the correct gasket? did you compare it with the old gasket that you took off? I suspect that you got the wrong gasket and blocked up the holes between cylinder head and engine block thats why the coolant are not circulating thus creating an excessive heat

the transmission computer is seeing a problem that can be dangerous, the computer will not lock up the torque converter as long as the problem is still happening, basically it is telling you to have the vehicle serviced and is not only flashing a light but also limiting the driveability to encourage you to take it to a service department, I would have a transmission shop look at it right away since the issue is major and it can either strand you somewhere or cause even more damage that will add cost to the repair

is it a outlander or a pajero that this is happeng on if its a outlander i know that the 2liter modle is a vw engine and it has problems with the crankshaft senor an this would cause this hope i could help

add octane booster to your gas tank when its full,,,will also give you more get up n go its called outlaw at the parts store

when you replaced the sending unit in the tank you have to make sure the indicator, that goes up and down, touches the indicator pad. in other words, make sure it tight.