20 Most Recent 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD Questions & Answers

Question moved from Misc category Help in the videos. It appears to be the level sensor in the reservoir.

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either your connectors need cleaning or maybe a break in the wiring. Is there on spot where both wires come together if so check there.If there is any plugs, pull them apart and clean them with contact cleaner

Here are the tie rod end nut torque specs: • Lower Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 129 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs • Upper Control Arms - (Front and Rear bolt) 140 ft-lbs x2 and (Knuckle Stud) 37 ft-lbs • Inner Tie Rods - 81 ft-lbs • Outer Tie Rods - (Knuckle Stud) Tie Rod nut 44 ft-lbs and jam nut 55 ft-lbs • Stabilizer Links - 17 ft-lbs • Rear Shocks - Lower and Upper 85 ft-lbs • Front Shocks - Module Bolt x2 37 ft-lbs, Module nut x3 37 ft-lbs and Stud nut 37 ft-lbs

I'd be looking at the switch first to see if it's not working.

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If you still have a carburetor there is a needle and seat that controls the float and sometimes they stick in one position and will let to much gas into the engine and causing the spark plugs to foul and not fire.

tim, I'm not sure if you have rear disc or drum brakes, but this is usually a caliper or brake cylinder (at the wheel) problem. If you have drum brakes, check for any problems like broken springs on the shoes, which would result in parts floating around, and brakes not releasing properly. The same for disc brakes, make sure nothing has become loose (mounting pins for caliper). If you find it is a brake cyl/caliper problem, you will need to rebuild or replace it. Make sure you bleed the brakes for the entire system (you want to flush out the system to prevent further problems), as old brake fluid can become contaminated (brake fluid absorbs water, which corrodes calipers and brake cylinders, leading to failure of those components). Last, make sure it isn't a parking brake that is not releasing. Parking brake cables corrode from exposure to the elements and can bind up, causing the brakes to drag. Use something like WD-40 on the cables to keep them operating correctly.

you need to have the airbag serviced! Sounds like a short circuit

It sounds as though you have either a frayed wire between the brake control circuit and tail/running light circuit of the truck side of the plug, or someone wired the truck side of the plug incorrectly. Think about it. The parking brake lights come on when the controller is activated. More than likely the tail lights are also. The tail lights are also going to come on when the headlights are on. This would cause the trailer brakes to be activated IF there is a short in the TRUCK side of the plug itself. That's where I would personally start investigating, The truck side of the trailer plug. Hope this helps.

Make sure the old filters rubber seal didnt stick to the filter housing when you removed it. While you have the filter off clean up the housing to filter seal. Ut some engine oil on the filter rubber seal befre putting it back on. Costs nothing and just takes a half hour of your time.

I need model year and engine size? How long since a tune-up? Any applicable trouble codes? I can only help with testing, what testing have you done? Did you use a gage and check proper fuel pressure? Some of the national brand auto stores will check codes for free, if there are any? Do you have drive by wire throttle? Does the speedometer work ok? Sometimes the vss can effect shift points? I'm not telling you to replace anything, but, do some testing. I can't go by what the mechanic did or didn't do. I can't go by what they said.

You might look for a loose or corroded ground. Any problems with the horn or wiper wash motor? I assumed a 5.0L engine. Info I see says there is a ground splice point and a couple of common grounds. If those systems are affected, it would be even more likely. Check fuses as well.