2008 Chevrolet Silverado - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Jump the switch side of relay with jumper wire, cavities for terminals 30 and 87 in diagram. As you see in diagram, terminal 87 shows to be fuse protected and hot all the time. switch side is left side of relay in diagram. The pump should run with jumper, don't need the key. You can also see fuel pump/oil pressure switch, redundant power supply to the fuel pump. Even w/o the relay, once you crank it enough to bring up oil pressure, that switch closes and the pump should run, depending.

Note the ps in picture. Your power steering pump is belt driven. I looked at info for 5.0L engine.

YOU NEED NEW ROD BEARINGS .

The search query for that has to be specific otherwise you get sites telling you the torque that the engine puts out, so; year make model (the part - cylinder head, main bearing caps etc) torque specifications Usually when you find one, they are all listed. please put year make model in all Fixya vehicle questions

What are the codes that are set before you "reset" them?

Not sure what plow or plough lights have to do with the turn signals - you surely haven't wired these high powered spotlamps to the direction indicators or even teed from any of the vehicle wiring? It isn't necessary but traditionally the speed of flash was governed by how much current the bulbs were drawing and suddenly flashing faster if a bulb went out was an accidental but useful benefit and so when electronic flashers came along the facility was deliberately built in. People who have fitted led bulbs that have no shunt resistors have complained about hyper flashing, because the current draw is negligible and when connection to the lamps is lost altogether due to a faulty hazard switch the dashboard direction indicator tell-tale can go crazy but fitting a couple of spotlamps causing that is a completely new thing... I am wondering if you followed the rules of wiring accessories to a digital vehicle? The rule is, wherever possible do not connect anything except manufacturer's upgrade kits to the vehicle wiring and when fitting electrical accessories always wire from scratch starting at the battery to keep the circuit completely separate and if a connection must be made to the vehicle electrics it should represent a load no greater than a relay coil.

Get your 12V test light out, and find a location thats "hot" with the key on. run off of that.

You have too many zeros in your description - 25,000 revs and you would be picking up engine bits from half a mile away... 600 rpm in park and presumably revving up to 2500 when a gear is selected isn't the fault of an idle air valve (or the throttle positioning motor) but is the result of commands sent by the management system. Restoring factory defaults should restart the self learning process and disconnecting the battery for a few hours (overnight) might restore the defaults but it might need dealer level diagnostic equipment.

This was a common problem with 1988 to 1998 Chevy Silverado models. In 1999 the Silverado body style changed on the 1500 series but remained the same on the 2500 and 3500 series. The plastic cover on the wiper motor had major problems and most were under factory recall. Visit https://www.nhtsa.gov/recallsfirst to see if your truck is under recall. You will need your VIN number. It is on your title, on the drivers side at the bottom of the windshield ,or on the drivers door on a tag on the area where the latch is. If it is not being recalled you will need to check the vehicle when the wipers are not working. Raise the hood and look for the wiper motor. It will be on the firewall. Tap on the black plastic motor cover a few times with the handle of a screwdriver. If the wipers begin working after a few taps the cover is most likely faulty. The best part is that if that is the culprit it is fairly easy to change. Make sure you check for a recall first , we have literally replaced hundreds of these under full warranty. Hope this helps.

might be ecm fuse is blown

What year is the truck ?

Does it have spark at the plugs ?

If none of the headlights burn I would suspect the switch . Can you test for power and ground to the sockets ? I would rather eliminate all fuses and wiring, connection issues first .

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When they cleaned the engine they got same of the electrical parts wet they may need replaced

1. To adjust the push rod length, first remove the master cylinder from the power booster.
2. Using a pair of pliers, turn the push rod adjusting not in to shorten and out to lengthen the push rod.
3. If the push rod is nonadjustable, use shims between the master cylinder and power booster to shorten it.

The service and repair manual with diagram will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com

Check the power wire to the BCM for power with the key off on the key on power wire.If there is voltage 2.5 volts or more unplug the wiper relay, power should go away. Replace the wiper motor.FIXED

Make sure that the positive battery cables are clean and tight. Sometimes one cable will have power which will give you lights and the other no power to start and run the engine.