Top 20 2007 Dodge Charger SE - Page 8 Questions & Answers

diagram should be on the cross member as you open hood or on the underside of hood , if not i've attached a schematic

• Have a look at the throttle body. Carbon buildup can buildup and clog the ports. I would also have a look at the connecting vacuum hoses as well. They get clogged to.

• If it does happen to be clogged again, give it a good cleaning and switch to a more premium gas and perhaps try a different gas station. You may be getting low quality gas that will not burn the best leaving carbon deposits at a much higher rate.

• To remove the throttle body follow the steps below.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove rubber air duct from the front of throttle body.
3. Unhook the electrical connector from the throttle body.
4. Remove the four throttle body mounting bolts.
5. Remove throttle body from intake manifold.
6. Clean and check condition of throttle body O-ring at front of intake manifold.
7. Clean mating surfaces of throttle body and intake manifold

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here and I will respond to you.
• Hope this helps.

Regards, Tony

There should be an adjustment knob just to the left of the steering column that will adjust the brightness of the dash lights. The problem you will have is the Dash lights only activate when the parking lights or headlights are on with the switch unless you have automatic running lights which will activate the dash lights when the running lights activate.

if it stall check your gas line going to the injectors unscrew the line and have some one turn the engine if gas does not shoots out is your fuel pump (bad) if gas shoots out the i would check my throttle position sesor good luck

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the turn signal and the brake light,, not the tail light section use the same filament, so be sure that the bulb is ok, have someone apply the brake,, if it goes on your bulb is fine and you have a different problem than the bulb , on the newer vehicles with the glass end on the bulb and the 3 wires ( sometimes 4 ) the wire gets smashed flat against the glass and doesn't make a good contact , remove the bulb and very gently pull the wire up away from the glass end, see if that works, if not, do the same thing to the socket end

You can disconnect ****** linkage at Transmission to shift into drive(First start car and make sure someone has brake applied before shifting)

i am not sure just what you want, to replace the sensor you remove the stering wheel and clock spring and the sensor is right there, so what do you need to know ? how to remove the stering wheel?

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????3

On the passenger side towards the back of the transmission. Vacuum modulator about 3" in diameter with a single fitting coming out of the center.

Look at the latch on the trunk lid. Sometimes they close. Put your key in it and open it, as you do this take a screwdriver or pen and pull the latch open.

On the front calipers, you just push the piston back into the caliper assembly, taking care to clean the dust boot off first. I would also be watching the fluid level in the master cylinder so it doesn't "overflow". Your rear wheels have whats called "drum in hat" style. Your parking brake is a pair of shoes that are in the rotor, so your pads are like the fronts, just push the piston back into the caliper after cleaning the dust seal.

If you want 300hp out of your 318 this will get you there: Bowl port the heads and have the valves back-cut 30*, Edelbrock RPM intake(Airgap is more money and the rpm and rpm airgap are basicly the same), Any 600cfm carb, Comp 20-309-4, Headers and dual exhaust. This combo will give you great bottom end and will make 300hp.

The cam, intake and carb alone will not get you there, you need more head flow. So bowl port the heads, or install some 360 heads. good day ! or is this a bit much !!
the 1973 Mopar 318 has 150 hp at 3,600 rpm.

this is an obd2 trouble code table, it can help you understand the meaning of code.
for p0153,
Possible SolutionsThings that may fix the problem include:
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter

Did you check the fuse ?

did you try a compression test yet?
Best regards
Ck

I have the same problem few days ago, and still didn't find any solution. Can any one please help?????7

order is 18436572 cylinders are 1357 on drivers side and 2468 on passenger side, front to back. Rotor points to #1 on cap or 180 degrees off (pointing to firewall) when timing mark on front harmonic balancer is aligned with "0" on timing scale.

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Usually there is a sticker under the hood for the diagram. Anyway, please see pictures below for the belt routing.





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sounds like a flat battery but it could be a wire off the starter motor solonoid even a immobilisor problem but the most obvious is a flat battery try charging it up for a day then try it before you go any further