2008 GMC Yukon Denali - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The Denali is seen often on this site with electrical problems. It is terribly over-engineered and reliant on modules and sensors. The issues you are seeing are all issues with the BCM (Body Control Module). Before you rush out and buy one, take the vehicle to a good auto-electrician. With a high level scan tool computer, they can run live data and diagnose issues historically and as they happen. Every time you disconnect the battery, you would have to do a Security Re-Learn and also, various engine parts have to relearn themselves as they run. The Throttle Body is one, and that is the part that monitors your idle along with the sensors attached to it. Some radios have to have the vehicle VIN Number programmed into them. This was done as a way to stop 'theft to order'. Perhaps yours wasn't original to the vehicle, and the alarm system (BCM controlled) sees that? We have a GM electronics Expert here, so hopefully Jeff will also chime in..

I would change the struts - the opening motor can't handle the excessive weight.

Could be a valve body problem, a shift solenoid problem or the transmission control module causing this.

Any shop is going to quote you what the labor guide says and the hourly rate will depend on where you are located and if you are using a dealer or an independent shop. Best guess without a labor guude is going to be around 15 hours or so. Plus you will have the added costs of all new fluids and filters. Also a factor is long block vs. Short block assembly. Call aroind...get a quote and ask what their labor rate is...then you will know what the time is.

the switch is part of the latch assembly

2008, I would start with replacing the oil pressure sending unit. Or maybe adding oil.

All you have to do to remove the disc and press the MENU button on the right side of the touch screen and choose the NAV option to change the search area/database. One of the choices is to eject the disc. Good Luck.

If your fan works on high only, you may had a bad blower motor resistor. But if it doesn't work at all and the fuse is good, I would start by checking the fan itself. If you have or can get a 12volt test light (at local parts store), you can access the 2 wires that lead into fan and check for power and ground. Your fan is located on the passenger side behind the glove. Since you have a GM, you should have a cover that can be removed towards the very bottom. Remove cover and bottom of fan should be exposed. Clip the alligator side of test light to a good ground, then probe the 2 wires at bottom of fan. One wire should light up if you have power going to fan. If it does, you have a bad fan motor. Hope this helps you. Good luck.

Your ground wire may be off....

Maybe. If it was normal before you had the oil changed, there could be a problem with the oil filter.

This is normal operation for these windows, there is no way to get around it as the tracks in the door are onyl long enough to allow them halfway.

my running board on the drivers side is stuck down... any suggestions.... I wish I could have them down full-time...

you dont normally repair them, other than if its cut thru.. and leaking you can put a short pipe and 2 clamps on it and refill with antifreeze..if its split longways need to replace entirely from parts store..

Have you checked the bulbs to see that they have not blown? Perhaps the fuse has blown?

Right check the O2 sensors for working by checking the wires with a multu meter ,although it can be checked with a code reader if set to read the PIDS ,this means that with engine running you read the readings on the code reader should be about 4.7v going up and down with RPM ,failing which on the O2 sensor their are twoi wires the same colour normally white or grey ,now check across these wires for a 12v supply with ignition on ,then get back to me as i dont iof this vehicle has 4 or 3 wires

before my next oil change I would clean the engine then go to the autoparts store and buy a engine dye follow the directions on the bottle then recheck in 1000 miles.

Should carefully pull strait out!

This is a rather difficult task to perform as the complete headlamp must be removed to do so. Here is what you will need to do to access the bulb. Feel free to contact me with any questions! Good luck.

Remove the 2 forward wheelhouse liner screws.

Remove the 2 washer container push pins.

Open the hood.

Remove the 6 upper fascia bolts right to the hood latch mechanism.

Remove the lower rear fascia bolt from the support bracket.

Loosen the 2 fascia to fender bolts from under the fascia.

Pull the outboard end of the front fascia straight outboard until it disengages from the fender attachment bracket.

Pull the fascia forward and downward to allow enough clearance to remove the headlamp assembly.

Loosen the lower outboard attachment bolts.

Remove the 2 upper headlamp bolts.

Grasp the headlamp at the upper inboard and lower outboard side and pull the headlamp forward to disengage the locating tab.

Pull the outboard side of the headlamp forward until the 2 locating pins disengage from the radiator support.

Disconnect the forward lamp harness connector.

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0601 stands for "Internal Control Module Memory Checksum Error." It is triggered when the powertrain control module (PCM) detects an internal problem, typically a failed Memory checksum test. The PCM's memory checksum test is performed regularly.Oct 27, 2023

P0601 Code: Internal Control Module Memory Checksum Error

CarParts.com https://www.carparts.com > ... > OBD-II Trouble Codes ..

The black wire with white lettering running from the lug on your alternator to your battery cable should be your fusible link and it will say on it.