20 Most Recent 2003 Holden Jackaroo Questions & Answers

The engine may have a intake vacuum leak. A defective O2 sensor has no effect on engine idle or performance.

I believe the 3.2 is a Honda/Acura engine and not a Isuzu engine. Are you talking about changing the engine oil or the transmission fluid? I ask because you state "the oil drainage plug" but later you mention the Automatic transmission.As for engine oil plugs, they are almost always found low on the engine oil pan, sometimes facing the front (like my Jag), to the side (like my Ford Ranger) or to the rear like my 90 Acura Legend 2.7L V6 did. Most have a bolt with a washer that should be replaced every time. If it doesn't look like a large hexagonal bolt head it could very well be a rubber plug that is pushed in. Not a good design in my humble opinion. If you change the oil be careful not to do it when the engine is hot as the oil is also quite hot. I believe in doing it when just warm, more drains out. I find it beneficial to drain about a quart out, put the drain plug back in and add a quart of Gunk or Snap engine oil slush, start it (but don't rev the engine & DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE) and let it just idle for 15 minutes. Give it some time to cool then remove the drain plug and let it drain out. Next remove the oil filter. Always ALWAYS pour fresh oil into the new filter a couple of times before screwing it on, and spread a little oil on the little rubber gasket on the filter first. I recommend synthetic oil for any vehicle as it doesn't break down into coke (hard rock-like black stuff) like conventional oil does. Those coke deposits are engine killers. I like Mobile 1 extended fuel economy. Synthetic costs more but lasts longer. If using synthetic were to only extend the life of your engine by two or three years, I consider it well worth the added expense. It should reduce wear in the engine, keep it much cleaner, make it quieter, and give you better mileage because it's slicker (less internal friction).

free play at the clutch fork 3/16 mininum

the car store has the can of spray for suspension noise. use it, it can stop it for ever, if not the parts are bad. or just need service. i uses a stethoscope for $5 to find exact spot.. sold at harbor FRIGHT(pun)

Thegrease inside the hub may have gone hard. So you might need to pull it off, open it up and give it a good clean in kero, and finsihing off with degreaser. Wash out degreaser with warm detergent water. Reassemble and apply some new grease for lubrication. Not too much that it leaks out too easily. Also make sure your clean out any dust in the narrow gaps between the out rotating parts. This dust and grime just makes it hard to lock and un-lock the hubs. After cleaning ut the dust using WD40 or simillar, and constant working back and orwad in a container of kero, re-lubricate with WD40. Should last a few years before it needs to be done again.

under the hood near battery should have a fuse box or on the drivers side at your feet near dash fuse box sometimes seperate box in the rear side panel or under the baggage compartment you might have park lights fuse and towing package fuse there might be more than 1 fuse burnt

Sorry cobber but in europe we do not have this car ,well thats a lie we do its the body shell but thats it ,ours are diesel or a smaller 4cyl lump ,But i would be inclined to look at the clutch cable to see if its catching on anything also the mechanism under the dash where the pedal control for the throttle is ,could be something simple like the carpet catching and when you push the clutch down its pushing up under the throttle pedal somehow ,remember the classic years ago of the woman moaning about petrol consumption ,----- she was hanging her handbag on the manual choke cable ?? or the american woman who rented a car at heathrow airport and drove to cornwall stuck in first gear and she thought it was a auto so check the carpet under the dash you never know ,greetings from spain by the way

Could be your automatic gearbox clutches worn out! Time for a second-hand exchange gearbox, or a rebuild of the clutch section of the gearbox.

Filter not tight enough, filter on cross threaded, left old gasket in there, forgot new gasket, wrong filter.

Check with your local parts hopuse to see if they have the DAYCO belt routing booklet. We have it here in pdf for USA models only.

take air con pump off drop lh side frunt diff and ushould be able to get it out

Do you have any errors on board? Go for a scan.

• 1999 Olympic Jackaroo V6 3.5L. This vehicle has now travelled some 366,000 kms. Ok so it is now 14 years old and few bits are wearing out. First the EGR and now MAF sensor and the MAP Sensor (?) - replaced both as a P0101 code is a little non specific. Now these parts are amazingly expensive locally - quote from Holden for the MAF was $350 and other sources anything from $150 up 2nd hand. The MAP was more reasonable at around $100+.Do yourself a favour and check out sourcing parts from the USA. The Jackaroo was sold in the USA under various brands including Isuzu Trooper. Also get yourself a copy of the workshop manual and Scangauge to help with diagnosing problems and improve your fuel economy by retraining your LEADfoot.A couple of sources in the USA that you may find helpful:http://stores.ebay.com/e-Herko [MAF sensor - MF8302]andhttp://stores.ebay.com/chandle... [MAP sensor - AS60]Both companies will answer questions and confirm compatibility of parts by email - 24 hour turnaround in my experience.You can use the vehicle compatibility function on their web sites to check whether the part is compatible - Use "1999" "Isuzu" "Trooper"Now the good news and the bad news, the good news is that the parts cost in USD$54 for the MAF and USD$9.95 for the MAP postage was $44.10 and USD$19.99 respectively. The bad news is it will take a week or two for the parts to arrive. If desperate you can pay extra postage for expedited shipping.In any event you will be much better off in your hip pocket.Fitting the parts will take you about 10 minutes to swap over and that will save you at least $120 with current mechanic rates. You will need a large phillips head and straight edge screwdriver for the MAF and a 10mm socket for the MAP - most of us have those!So you can spend around $600 locally or you can spend less than $150 for the parts including postage (and $99 for the Scanguage on off) and fit them yourself.I hope the above is useful for another Jackaroo Owner - they really are an incredibly well built vehicle and if you look after 'Jacky' she will look after you.
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Vern hanson •