The car turns on, after 3 or 4 seconds the car shuts off.
expensive guessing there ,wow !
why not find out why ,by using diagnosis, its far cheaper, i promise.
engine stalls:
A: can you save the stall>? with a fast right foot action????
yes, then its not 12vdc power lost to EFI system.
no, then it must be lost spark or lost fueling or flooding.
did you do the full 60k mile tune up yet? and the 90k? ever interval?
your mech. can't find this? is that what you are asking.???
stalls list, near impossible to answer not knowing, test A: above !
but here goes.
1: lost 12vdc power, EFI dies. engine dies. volt meter saves day.
2: lost spark, (cant save stall, test A, for this or lost 12vdc)
3: lost fuel pressure , stall can be proven with using test fuel at stall point. (spray fuel into intake) below 30PSI fuel, on all cars is bad.
4; flooding, from too much fuel pressure, say over 60psi, causes flooding, leaking injectors, so an injector leak down and balance test shown in the FSM.
See soaking wet spark plug tips (free easy check)??? flooding.
fast foot easy prevent stall, ? yes, ISC stuck closed. clean it
harder fast foot save is EGR stuck open. clean it.
impossible fast foot save is , #1,2,3 above.
all above can be tested easy and with cheap tools.
the engine runs by order. "classic list"
do the tune up.
1: 12vdc to EFI ,key on, all the time.
2: engine compression at spec, or 150psi. 90k timing belt ignored?
3: good spark and timed right. (strobe light test)
4: good fueling (not lost , or flooding)
5: EGR not stuck open, ISC not stuck closed.
this gets most stalls.
if fuel pressure is at bad shunt levels, +60psi , due to the fuelpressue
regulators stuck closed. (in side tank it is so is fuel filter.)
the engine will flood , i check fuel pressure. way before any ECU swaps. infact i check all ECU inputs first. and fuel pressure must be in spec range too.
good luck.