20 Most Recent 2005 Honda Odyssey Touring - Page 9 Questions & Answers

To get the lower cover off, all belts, and the crank pulley need to be removed. You have the same engine as an Accord of the same year. So, the side mount will need to come out too. You have to support the engine with a jack. (not under the oil pan!!!!) Use a flat block of wood on the jack to distribute weight evenly. Question: Why are you after the CKP sensor? They are not a very common failure item. What problems are you having?

Check that you have not damaged the crank position sensor or disconnected the wires to it . Check the air gap and the rotor for dirt and any thing that will prevent the sensor from working correctly.

The car should start but will run bad /misfiring. Yes u need all six

You need to remove your positive connection at the battery first. Now you connect one end of test light to battery clamp, and the other to battery. Make sure they have good contact. Test light will light up anytime there is a draw. The brighter the light, the more draw there is. Start by removing one fuse at a time and watch for light to go out, or at least dim quite a bit, and leave it out & record which one it was. The ideal way to do it is to remove all fuses, making sure light is out completely, then start re-installing them and watch for one that light comes on bright. That will tell you which circuit is causing the excess draw. If you think that will get you in trouble, or confused, just pull one at a time and if no difference in light, put it back in. Just leave those that make light dimmer, out, making sure you note where they go. That way if you have 2 or 3 with slight draw, (like radio, clock etc.,) but 1 with big draw, then you can zero in on that circuit as the culprit. Take's a little time, but it works.

Check for blown fuses first.

There is a resistor that goes out on the odyssey and pilots for the blower motor. Does it blow on full speed? Is it both front and back that don't work? http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-problems-concerns/66605-front-ac-blower-not-working.html

This can be caused by either a bad vehicle speed sensor, or a faulty speedometer. But due to the Engine light being on, the code is likely for the speed sensor failure. If so, replace it and recheck, it should work now. The codes/memory can be cleared for this problem by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds. Or pulling the fuse labelled "back-up/radio/accy" in the under-hood fuse box.

The pedal position sensor is throwing a code. could be ECM may need to updated

1. no power to dash board.?
2. all fuse boxes. the are like 3 on this car.
3. are you saying you key on and the idiot lamps and gauges all dead. Dash board on this car is complex. huge + HVAC.

my guess is you never saw all fuses boxes on this best. 2 in cab and 1 or 2 in the engine, bay. the operators guide (lost that) covers each box. so does the FSM and at alldata.com i say:

• battery dead. but yours cranks so is not it.
• or fuse blown.
• if im wrong, the volt meter comes out fast.

It has to go back on in same position

p07xx codes are transmission failures, the FSM covers that the A/T tranny is complex. when a DTC sets, that means , TO DO MORE TEST to find the Cause. the ECU can not guess, what is wrong,.ever. it can only report tests that fail, called, "monitors" OBD2 jargon. see the great review here (he knows his fact !) http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1490107 see the 10 tests above link. (fsm tests, they are) mindless tests. no tech needs this. its just a 2 wire sensor. if fact a thermistor. NTC type. that is all we need and the trip points. lets review them all, (really, get the FSM and read it) or alldata.com 0118, ECT reads wrong. engine coolant temp sensor . with all sensors, its means: P0118 ECT Circuit High Input this will cause Limphome , so must be fixed first !!! low engine power. the key word there is HIGH, (too high temp, too high voltage or current) the FSM tells which it is. Voltage, (odd huh? but is true) on my car this means Open failure, over 10.4vdc is a hard fail. causes:

• ECT ground wire open
• ECT hot wire open.
• ECT bad, inside its going OPEN circuit.
• its not too hot, as hot is lower voltage !
• its reading insane too cold, that is, colder than possible.
• someone disconncected this sensor with key on. so, reset it.
• Bad ECU, (nah) or wires to ECT , as always, wires can be it.
• the 10 tests above link. (fsm tests they are)
• A short frorm system 12v to the ECT hot wire,

make sure dead cold , rad cap off, the rad if FULL of AF? 50% is it> that means the ECT is under water. no ECT works right, dry, nor engine. so check the water first. no EFI system works right with a Crazy ECT, non do. so is FIRST ORDER FAILURE. with cold engine, you off the ECT connector (lock lever !) then see about 3000 ohms, (see table in FSM) then put back conn get engine fully hot. now off the ECT connector. again. now reads 300 ohms. (about) see the ohm change there, 10 for 1.? 300 ohms is about 200 F, see FSM charts for you ambient temp cold. i never try to guess that. here. if you connect any scan tool to the OBD2 port you can what live data from the ECT till the cows come home. why not do that. see it mess up. the check the ECT volts key on, and ohms key off. bingo, the problem is found. the ECU will not lie to you, it will tell you that is measured. either a valid temperatures or out of legal range. in fact the ECU is just a voltmeter, that scales the volts to temperature. we call this the ECT catastrophic monitor. (out of range) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ fix above first. 2 p0740 No other A/T trouble codes set, engine running at cruise speed with VSS inputs received, and the PCM detected the lockup clutch did not engage or disengage correctly. 3 P730 same as above 4: P1740 (factory code, for same as above 740) i will not attempt to repeat the 200 pages in the FSM on transmission. you can read it any time. at alldata.com or buy the FSM.

year? country sold?

air bags. no year stated. nobody can answer that, ever. it needs diagnosis, as the operators guide said and the FSM shows. it say" TAKE IT IN" your insurance covers this. and for double sure if not at fault.

cluster lamps dead?? is that it, post symptoms or say what you are doing? its in the operator guide, sure is. or the one that's blown, (google how to test car fuses,) answer, fuse 7 and/or 21 are blown, for cluster. your car has a cluster brain, so not stating exact symptoms makes all answsers, iffy at best.

dampers failing this is covered in the FSM, got that,,,,???? no, so look at alldata.com log in to alldata, and pick the HVAC section, see the damper tests. bingo. same as FSM, same chapter. some cars have cables others damper motors, or mixed.