Top 20 2005 Mitsubishi Outlander LS - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Are you going by the gauge that says fuel economy on the dash, if so try to zero out the gauge or reset it ,this will recalculate the reading.

• Hi, I can help.

• Open the door and look on the inside of the door where the mirror mounts from the outside. Often times Mitsubishi's mirror access panel is behind a corner of the door panel and it is just a little corner piece that pops off.

• Follow these steps ---

1. You will either see some screws right away or a little panel that will have a screw to remove (some of then you just gently pry off with a flat tool. If no screws the gently pry off.)
2. Now you will see a wire harness that is coming down from the mirror. Gently lift it up until the connect is reached.
3. Remove the connector and don't let it drop down. Anchor with a little duck tape.
4. Now you will see three nuts that need to be removed ( I think 13mm ).
5. Make sure you support the mirror as you are removing the last bolt.
6. Now wiggle and jiggle the mirror out and pay attention so the harness comes out freely with it.
7. It's a basic reversal to install the new mirror.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here and I will respond to you.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

Make sure the ****** fluid is at full level, there might be a problem with the ****** pump or crank shaft spacer.

check the flasher unit. most auto part stores will assist you

In the body shop that was just about what we would have to do when there are no visible screws and it was the first time removing a panel in a new type of vehicle.

Those panels are usually held in place with some metal clips (sometimes plastic molded into the panel) that snap into slots in the body. You can lightly pull and get a feel for where there is reistance. Slide a thin tool like a paint stick (or something stronger) and use it to pry up in the area of resistance. You may also be able to pry up and look under it to see where the clips are.

Its a good idea to change plugs every 50K miles...so go ahead.
By looking at the plugs you can check engine's health.

With no codes...I'd suspect a fuel leak somewhere...

Hope this helps...

Is your key bent or somehow worn down a bit? Try another key if you have one or turn key over a try again. Also rock the steering wheel left and right while trying to turn key

Hi :) There is a tab of steel on a brake pad that sqeals when the pad is getting low on thickness to let you Know it is time to change the brake pads and only sqeals at low speeds Have the brake checked out by a Mechanic.This tab is only on disc brakes not drums.

If you have unexplained current draw, the best way to troubleshoot is with an accurate clamp on amp meter. Then you pull the fuses - all of them - and then put one fuse in at a time and write down what the reading is. When you find the item that is drawing far more current than what it should then you have a starting point.

It is a long drawn out operation and takes an accurate fuse box diagram with fuse sizes, but it does allow you to pin down unexplained current draw problems.

P1773 is a late addition to 09 Lancers CVT system.
The code is a ghost code; it does not specifically indicate a problem, it indicates evidence of a problem. When this code comes on, it is to signify that the CVT computer has detected an abnormality in the ABS computer, but you will need a scan tool to test the sensor wires properly; and as of right now, Mitsubishi dealers are the only places with full ABS access on 08+ Lancers.

You're probably leaking from the heater core.

This all depends on the year and the rtype of sparkplug being used, for example a regular sparkplug i would replace at about 40,000 miles but then you have paltinum and double platinum sparkplugs that i have seen go 100,000 miles but i would replace those at about 70-80,000 miles. good day.

Hello maothilak: My name is Roger and I will help you. According to my repair manuals and shop guide . The timing belt should be replaced every 96560.82km. or every 60,000 miles. Please note this engine has been identified as an interference engine. That means if the belt slips or breaks severe internal damage will occur. With the mileage you have on your engine I would recommend changing the timing belt. You did not say which engine you have? My all data system identified it as a 2.4 sohc engine. Should you have a 3.0 engine than the time to change the belt is 168981.4 km or 105,000 miles. The 3.0 is also considered an interference engine. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

This is hard to diagnose over the net without physically seeing what is happening to the starting components with the key turned to start but could be your vehicle neutral position switch (vehicle has to sense the car in park or neutral to start) could be starter issue, ignition switch and even a low cranking amp battery. Have you tried to jump start the car?

Most manuals can be had online after a bit of a Google search....
a 2011 may be a bit hard to find though...

CD HAS A GREASE FINGER PRINT SPOT ON IT CAUSE CD PLAYER TO LOCK START FLASHING.TURN OFF CD PLAYER FOR A LITTLE WHILE.THEN EJECT CD.SOME TIMES CD PLAYER WILL GET HOT CAUSE IT TO SKIP AND LOCK UP.IF IT DOES IT ALL THE TIME CD LENS NEED CLEANING OR PLAYER IS FAILING.IF ONE CD ACT UP ALL THE TIME.CD IS FAULTY.HAS FACTORY DEFECT OR DEEP SCRATCH IN IT.

Charging the A/C system can be very dangerous if done improperly. There are high pressures involved and special gauges are required to do it properly. Running a compressor with too much or too little oil or freon can cause damage as well.

If you cannot afford to take it to a licensed A/C technician, there are alternatives at your local auto parts store. There are cans of freon that have a charging hose and the proper fittings to allow you to add some freon yourself. Some of the more expensive kits will even contain a gauge on the charging hose. Read any and all directions very carefully before trying this yourself. This solution may help you temporarily depending on how leaky your A/C system is. It may last for a week, a month, or a year. There is no way to tell until you try.

hi.
sounds like a loose belt for the alternator and power steering pump.
have a look at the belt on the alternator and see if it goes round the power steering pump.

then check the longest straight of the belt and you should be able to move it less than 1/2" in the middle of this section.
any more than that and you will need to tighten the belt.
it may be worth just replacing the belt in case it has stretched. it could well be 10 years old after all.

please ask again if you need detailed instructions for tensioning or changing the belt

Mitsubishi doesn't provide warranty to gear box,motor and plastic fittings etc!!

These are available at the dealership. There is one way though. You can get a 21" RAIN X wiper and i just cut it down to size. The grooves on a RAIN X will fit up to your rear wiper. As far as replacing it although it looks more difficult at first glance it it every bit as simple as the front wiper blades. It's a simple pop off. You can also just change rubber wiper and leave the actual blade alone. the rear is a mini blade style (this refers to the size of the rubber insert in the blade, not the actual whole blade being small.) You can replace the rubber using an Amcor blade or any "mini" blade. Puchase the biggest one they have, take out the rubber wiper and just cut to size. You can change the rubber many times off of one blade thus saving you a bunch of money.