2004 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

First thing to check are the engine's thermostat. It should open around 190 degrees. Does your instrument panel have a coolant temperature gauge or just an idiot light? If the gauge is in the middle third of it's sweep, the thermostat is OK. If the gauge reads low, have the thermostat replaced.
The second item to check in in the HVAC box below the dashboard. If the Fresh air/Recirculate door will not shut, cold outside air is continually mixed, which will degrade heating.
Charlie

The only real thing that can do this is the speedometer

ok there is a few options but the best way to know is to have the computer on it tested more than likely its the computer

tyres to big or suspension leaning slightly

If your pedal is dropping to the floor and not returning. I may have a solution.
Your car is equipped with a hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinder. These release the clutch pressure plate to allow for shifting gears. If either or both are leaking then hydraulic pressure naturally can't be transmitted to the clutch release fork.
1st: Check your clutch master cylinder reservoir. It is located beside the brake booster. Is it low on fluid?(Takes DOT3 brake fluid) If so, you can investigate further by removing the mounting nuts and looking at the area where the piston rod(the rod that connects inside the car to the clutch pedal) enters the unit.
2nd: If all's well there, you should check for leakage at the slave cylinder, mounted on the side of the trans. This is easily enough identified, as it will have steel tubing connecting it to the clutch master cyl. You may see fluid leaking from the cylinder, or if you pull the rubber housing boot off there may be fluid collected within.
3rd: If any of these conditions are present, naturally parts replacement is the best solution.
Now my professional recommendation is that, if these conditions exist in either component, you should replace both with NEW parts(not scrap yard parts). The reason for that is, typically if one of the two goes bad the other is going to fail very soon, or has failed at the same time. The internal tolerances of these cylinders are pretty tight, if you over extend the pistons within, beyond the range of normal use, the unit has been damaged.
If you choose to replace these yourself, you should be able to purchase these components readily aftermarket, and installation isn't all that hard. You'll need a metric socket set to remove mounting hardware, A metric (believe to be 10mm) line wrench or a box end wrench will suffice to remove hydraulic lines. You'll have to disconnect the clutch pedal from the master cyl. rod under the dash. You'll need the ability to raise and support the vehicle properly enough to access the slave cylinder on the trans. Once the actual parts have been replaced, you'll have to bleed the system of air. This part usually works best with a helper. You can start by opening the bleeder orifice on the slave cyl.. After filling the master cyl. with clean DOT3, allow fluid to run down and out the bleeder orifice. Close the orifice, check fluid level. Have your assistant depress the clutch pedal fully. Open the bleeder to allow air to escape and then close it. Repeat this process till no air, but only clear (no bubbles) fluid comes out. Remember to close the bleeder BEFORE your assistant releases the pedal. When you have clear fluid check for proper clutch disengagment and gear shifting.
I hope this info helps.

are you sure you had installed the correct gasket? did you compare it with the old gasket that you took off? I suspect that you got the wrong gasket and blocked up the holes between cylinder head and engine block thats why the coolant are not circulating thus creating an excessive heat

the transmission computer is seeing a problem that can be dangerous, the computer will not lock up the torque converter as long as the problem is still happening, basically it is telling you to have the vehicle serviced and is not only flashing a light but also limiting the driveability to encourage you to take it to a service department, I would have a transmission shop look at it right away since the issue is major and it can either strand you somewhere or cause even more damage that will add cost to the repair

is it a outlander or a pajero that this is happeng on if its a outlander i know that the 2liter modle is a vw engine and it has problems with the crankshaft senor an this would cause this hope i could help

add octane booster to your gas tank when its full,,,will also give you more get up n go its called outlaw at the parts store

when you replaced the sending unit in the tank you have to make sure the indicator, that goes up and down, touches the indicator pad. in other words, make sure it tight.

what's the displacement of the powerplant?

You need to conect a scanner to the car,because the check engine light is on. then, the scanner give you a code, this code have a description of a trouble from a sensor or actuator in the electronic fuel inyection sistem. you need to check all around from this actuator or sensor before you replace it. example:

code 045: bad signal from oxigen sensor.
check exhaust manifold and piping before sensor to find holes..
you need to check electrical conector( see for phisical damage: broken, born, etc) of this sensor, the incoming voltage from computer, output signal to car´s computer. etc.
this is an example. you need to know what code have your car to fix it.

Hi,

To my knowledge, the indicator "PWR" signifies that your Pajero's transmission is set to "Power" mode meaning it will stay on to a gear longer before shifting. Technically, what this means is that transmission will not use the top ratio and there will be more power; that is faster acceleration.

Should you want to turn this off (normal setting), there would be a switch on your center console with something like "A/T Switch" that has to be set to the middle position.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

It cold be both the fuel pump or crankshaft sensor will cause this problem. A shop should be able to use a scope and check the square wave pattern on the sensor to determine if it is good or not.

you might want to try to prime the fuel filter. Open the bleeder - 10mm- and press the pump. See if you have air in the line.

Connect a scan tool and the DTC code will tell you the issue.. https://www.google.com/search?q=4m40+engine+neutral+light+blinks+continuously ..

Check the clutch disengaging properly ...............

Some things to check:

• CV axles (a telltale sign of bad or wearing axles is noise)
• Suspension bushings (sway bar bushings, etc)
• Motor mounts (including transmission mounts)
• Control arms/ball joints (some aftermarkets fail out of the box)
• Strut mounts (worn or faulty strut mounts can cause noise)
• Proper torque spec for all suspension components

under left side of dash

Question edited for clarity. No one has documented how to do it, so basically you remove the door panel and look. There are spares and parts schematics in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=mitsubishi+fuso+fm557+replace+window+regulator ..