2005 Nissan Murano SE - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

most likely complete unit I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/howard_977676954994c5b2

If wipers arms are not moving and motor operates, look at base of wiper arms. There will be a cover concealing a nut on each arm. Check and make sure the nuts are tight. If tight, suspect wiper transmission disconnected from wiper motor assembly and cowling will need disassembly for inspection/repair

Hi I would say to take it to halfolds or a place that sales alternaters and batterys,they should test the alternater (in car) for free. Hope this was some help,all the best.

it could be center bearing, if its going bad it can also cause a vibration, make sure you have sufficient fluid in the diff as well, you can also get a noise and vibration from collapsed motor or trans mounts

OK if they are smooth and thick. It's not dangerous; it doesn't cause uneven braking, but I wouldn't advise putting very ridged pads back in - as they will tend to accelerate the wear on the disc/rotor. You CAN take the worst of the ridges out with a file, if you can use a file accurately and don't taper the pad... Don't use emery paper as some abrasive will remain in the pad and wear the disc/rotor. Also if the pads are very worn down, they will wear away quicker and could damage your new disc/rotor.

Best to call your dealer on this one.May have to replace stereo or learn japanese.

Yes it does and the washer fluid reservoir under the hood is for both the front and rear. The following is a diagram of the washer pump and hoses so you can check for operation or leaks.http://www.nissanmurano.org/forums/attachments/problems/15059d1233342517-rear-washer-fluid-not-squirting-washer-motor.jpg

all that is DIY programmable, per your users guide(in glove box) and if battery main went dead it sure can forget all that.! and goes to factory default settings . ( by design) car starts and runs ok key fob batteries all new. and fresh.? I have all that in our cars turned off, I like being in control. auto locks and unlocks are programmable in my key fob chapter of my users guide, like most cars are. (or configurable) no told at all what else works great , like driving and head lamps etc. cars have like 50 fuse and 50 feature now, do some work?

Tengo un honda civic 2013 empieza a salir primero la luz del tampon de la gasolina luego la del check le cambie el vapor ganister purg,EGR valve solenois y el tapon de la gasolina pero no es el original fue remplazo y me da el codigo P0456 de una peque?a fuga..Que podria ser?

You have left an earth lead off somewhere take a jumper cable from the negative of the battery to the body and see if it cures fault

Assuming your Nissan is a 2016 or newer, the four mount bolts are 65ft/lbs, (88Nm). For the 'CV' nut do you mean the large nut on the end of the drive shaft? That nut is tightened to 135ft/lbs, (182Nm). This is a very tight setting so you will probably need to 'wedge' the brake disc to stop it turning as you tighten it. Try fitting two wheel studs next to each other and fully tighten them. Get a helper to hold a pry bar between the studs as you tighten the nut.

If the engine sounds as if it wants to start, it is possible that you just have too much gas in the manifolds or in the cylinders. Try the following: Turn on the ignition but do not start. Hold down the gas pedal for a minute or two. Then start the car without releasing the pedal. I know some will say this method will not work with "drive by wire" systems such as MO's but I think it will. More than likely though, the problem could be the anti theft system interfering, or locking down the ignition. Close all doors and then using your key (not the fob) lock and unlock the doors several times and then try.

I assume its a manual? From what I remember of a Friends car doing that, his clutch was sticking due to an oil leak from the rear mainseal and causing the clutch to stick on the flywheel. When the car warmed up, it was OK but after a few months, the clutch had to be replaced as it was slipping badly.The seal was changed at the same time.

Drop the fuel tank to service the pump inside the tank.

Here is a video that will show you how to change it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8ZQNVMwGYI

double check, make sure you have the right bushings and the everything is tight

sounds like the throttle body needs cleaning after cleaning it may need to be relearn

Safe mode is when the computer control unit senses a failure that can cause damage under normal power

Most likely "scalloped" tread on the tires causing noise but could be a wheel bearing or bearings. Slide your hand on the tire tread,it should not have any high or low spots. Also while driving if you can change the noise by moving the steering wheel a little to the left and right (changing the load on the bearings) then it would be wheel bearings.

That most likely is a bad wheel bearing my friend. Jack each corner of the front and see if the wheel and tire will "shake" by trying to move the top of the tire in and out. On rear wheel drive vehicles, the rear axel will move in and out or op and down. If you spin the rear tire you may hear the grinding noise. Change that bearing where it moves or is noisy.