20 Most Recent 2007 Nissan Tiida 1.6 Questions & Answers

A loose timing chain tensioner will not cause the oil lamp to light. The noise you are hearing is most likely valve noise due to oil starvation. The oil light comes on when the oil pressure is too low to be safe for the engine. Most people believe it is to tell you the oil level is low. A low oil level can cause low oil pressure is the oil is below the sump, but low oil is not the cause of the light - low oil pressure is. This can be due to a number of things, such as a bad oil pump, faulty bypass regulator at the oil filter, loose sump pipe connection, or even an oil gallery plug that comes out internal to the engine. You need to stop using the vehicle immediately and have the oil pressure checked with a mechanical guage to determine if the problem is the oil ressure or the sensor that lights the light. The chain tensioner being loose CAN cause noise, and that itself is an issue that should be fixed, as in many vehicles a loose chain can jump time, or jam and break, and since many cars have interference engines, either of these scenarios can cause severe internal damage to the engine.

I have a Nissan tinda automatic not moving when gets hot

my sensor light stays on and the car idles very ruff, what can it be

Try changing oil first. Intake Valve Timing Control solenoid is located on passenger side of engine bay, with an electrical connection on one end. It's held in by one 10mm bolt. It is inside the cover that goes over the camshaft pulleys. Don't use any oil additives, they can gum up the solenoid as it uses oil pressure to adjust your valve timing. If you remove solenoid, it can be cleaned with throttle body cleaner.

The plug that is getting wet replace with a new one. It could be that the plug is breaking down which is causing it to function intermittently.

Timing chain loose

check if no signal to spark plugs that means camshaft position sensor

all of my research keeps coming back to p1610 for the P16ff Code but I am not sure. The code P1610 is a problem with the NATS, or better known as system of vehicle immobilizer. And this arose out of the following: -are using a q-key is not registered or not transmitting the code - BCM or ECM are evil, and now is in "locked mode" you can do something quick: 1. Confirms the code q yields 2. EXIT THE LOCKED MODE. If the code is p1610 continues with the following with a copy of the vehicle key: (1) -Place the switch to OFF (2) -Place the switch in ON with the key registered(do not start the engine). Wait 5 seconds (3) -Returns the switch to the off position. Wait 5 seconds (4) -Repeat step 2 and 3 two more times (being a total of 3 times) ( 5) -Starts the engine with this test and write us if t worked. If this is not the case there will be q enter to detail by checking with the diagnostic charts and other things. The other code does not exist or does not comply with the structure of a code

this could be a fuel problem, ignition problem/sensor, TPS(throttle position problem), it could even be a plugged exhaust.

i would advise having the area under the hood where the clutch cable comes through from the interior as there is a reinforced plate to stop the cable pulling through the bulk head , this reinforcing may be giving way , another reason for that type of sound could be the cable itself breaking gradually , as the cable is made up of thinner cables twisted together, my last thought is the clutch pedal return spring may just need some lubrication on the anchor points , this is the easiest thing to try first as just need to look up to the top of the clutch pedal locate the return spring and put a blob of grease where the spring is hooked in place , hope this helps

look on the dip stick or oil cap,,,check the book...Use only the recommended weight.

I agree. Get the tcm scanned for codes.

Check for binding steering shaft U-joint

run the fault codes as it appears that the engine /transmission has gone into limp mode and is restricting the rpm to prevent damage .