20 Most Recent 1992 Mitsubishi Pajero Questions & Answers

Check the overdrive lockout sensor: http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1109458

The best solution you'll get from books at www.reliable-store.com These are books containing info on repair, service, troubleshooting, parts info, assembling dissemble, removal, error/fault codes, wiring diagrams and everything on any vehicle- cars, atv, trucks. forklifts, boats, excavators etc.

First check to see if coolant is flowing through radiator, check cooling fans to make sure they work when it reaches hot temperature. If it's not flowing, check thermostat to see if it's opening.

ECU has logged an error code. YOu need to read it out with a tester and then fix the reported problem or clear the error code. ECU goes to safe mode with reduced power if certain errors are logged. Regards Winfried

injector copper washer seal ,best ask a garage its not a easy job ,

see if this link helps you out. firing order for 1992 pajero Google Search

check rear brake lines and rear slave cyl

take wheel off undo few bolts and hammer it out and refit new one

fuel pump relay

34psi

According to the manual, it changes the engine operation from "Fuel Efficiency" to "Powerful" mode. I don't know exactly what the acronym stands for but when used it revs the engine to a much higher rpm before shifting. There is a button between the driver and passenger seat you can turn it on/off, it's not a 'warning' light

Only thing that comes to mind is timing

Are you a DIYer? I recommend a repair manual from auto parts store. It is easy to refer to, and you will want it next time anyway.

check the oil level of the gearbox, if level is low or oil is too thin will cause it to crunch. put an 80w90 gear oil into it if needs fill or change/ also check the clutch is fully disengaged. maybe clutch hydraulics have air in the system, this will reduce the travel of the clutch fork and not fully disengage the clutch. to see if its the clutch hydraulics select 1st gear push in the clutch and start the engine, if it starts to creep forward check out the hydraulics. if all this ok, prob be the synchro rings internal in the gearbox

NEVER use the pressure rating on the tire. That is only the recommended MAX pressure that tire can take. The only tire pressure you should follow is located on the placard either on the inside of the door under the latch, or on the door jam under the latch receiver. Using the tire pressure on the tire can result in poor performance, traction, tire blowouts, uneven tire wear, and poor gas mileage. The manufacturer factors in details the tire could never know, such as weight of the vehicle, alignment specifications, and performance of the vehicle.

I'm not sure I understand your question. When I first read it I thought you were saying you had an error code that the engine idle is low, but the error code you've given is for a MAP sensor problem which you mentioned in your post also. I'm going to guess that you've observed the low idle yourself, and when you ran the diagnostics the engine computer was complaining of a bad MAP sensor signal. This is triggered when the engine computer sees a change in another sensor that should correlate with a certain change in the MAP sensor, but the MAP sensor signal doesn't change as expected. Idle problems are a possible symptom of a bad MAP sensor, so this is not unreasonable. What your engine is telling you is that you should check the MAP sensor and its related wiring and hose connections to try to find your problem. If you fix the problem with the MAP sensor then your idle may start working properly again.

Replace it. if you look in the bottom of the door, you will probably find the parts that broke off or shavings of the plastic. I have never had any luck on fixing regulators. Some have worked for awhile, but still break again. I replace them all now. Not worth the time. The plastic is just to worn out.