20 Most Recent 2007 Mazda 3 Questions & Answers

In my experience, heater not working can only be a handful of things. For me it's always been an undiagnosed or overlooked radiator problem. The heater in my Toyota Highlander would suddenly blow cold air every time the radiator got low on coolant/water, which was related to a leaking secondary radiator (it was a hybrid so it had two) and a clogged hose. Outside of that, there isn't much it could be, as there isnt a heater element to check or some sort of secondary system that handles climate control. Plus given your location and extreme cold, if the radiator had gotten low or was imbalanced with too much water, it may have caused a crack or deterioration of any number of components that would effectively shut down the heating system. The only weird thing Ive encountered on this one, is the climate control panel itself being so old that the temperature setting plastic bit inside the unit broke and it would no longer detect any changes. That was a quick panel pull, trip to pick n pull, and 20 mins of work. So go over the radiator systems with a fine tooth comb, then check the climate control units age/condition. After that its playing guess which wire is loose, corroded or broken.

My guess is you need a new switch. These go out pretty frequently and Ive already replaced mine in the ole 2008 once. From the sound of things, if it was sitting for a bit, it may also have had some time to get some moisture in there which tends to rust out things quicker than anyone would like, especially on those pesky little electrical components nearest the outside. So it was more likely related to its general age and sitting without any air going through it for a few months that caused the failure, rather than being related to the jump start.

If they are just ground wires you can ground them to just about anything. There is one to engine block, one to transmission, one to alternator, one to body of the car, one to intake manifold (thats the hard one), one to the top of the engine, and if you really want to you can hook one up to the exhaust header, which supposably kills static electricity within your exhaust for less resistance. Shoot, even the bolts that connect the tranny to the engine would work.

http://www.carproblemzoo.com/mazda/mazda3/transmission-stuck-in-gear-problems.php Above is a link that may help you get going. Good luck...

Some problems are beyond fixya. You need a good auto air conditioning shop. Noisy when cabin air conditioning is turned could be warning of compressor failure, that could leave you stranded. Get it checked out.

Never attempt cleaning (spray cleaner) a MAF sensor or touch the element, It will damage the sensor. A dirty air filter will put the MAF sensor out of range. The only sensor subject to physical wear is the TPS (throttle position sensor) The low oil sensor will disable the ignition if more than a quart low. The crank sensor triggers the ignition and if not installed correctly will not pick up a signal(.018 air gap) Perform An OBDII scan of stored fault history before going any further to avoid buying more parts you don't need.

On this website, you find fuse box diagram and description for Mazda 3 (2007) Mazda 3 2007 fuse box diagram Auto Genius

disconnecting the battery lead with the car running is a good way to cause serious electronic problems take it in to have the charge circuit checked including the voltage regulator, fuse, diodes ' rectifier pack find an accredited auto electrician for this , not your local mechanic

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. 2007 MAZDA 3 MAZDA SPEED 3 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL DOWNLOAD

need regasing

compressor is overworked. check for leaks

2007 MAZDA 3 MAZDA SPEED 3 SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL DOWNLOAD for easy and best solution

Drums brakes. This could be an adjustment problem or a spring has broken. Slack adjusters do lock up from brake dust or rust. Rotors. This could an adjustment for the E brake shoes, Or the pad has broken off the shoe. Also if a bolt broke or came out of the caliper.

Without it being on a scanner in front of me, I would change solenoid B first. But when you get to the solenoid, check the plug for power and ground with the key on. If it is good then replace it. Then if you still have the intermittent TCC. replace the internal harness of the transmission.

po733: Gear 3 ratio incorrect po744:Torque converter CKT intermittent cost ????