20 Most Recent 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 2 Questions & Answers

it would appear so you never mentioned that at any time did they do a fault code reading and told you of the problem I would find an accredited service center and have the codes read to get a better idea of the fault . fixing by guessing is a costly exercise

I doubt it.The sensor could make the transmission not know when to shift, but not much else.

I think you have an intermittent electrical condition somewhere in ignition/start/run circuits.

Dealer . need factory scan tool to go into system an turn it off .

Check catalytic converter.

could have but maybe the sensor is bad or your oil pressure has dropped you need to have it checked asap !! by a specialist !! or ? More Info please !!!

Either the alternator is not charging the battery or you have a draw that is draining the battery. The alternator must have power to the field coil and a good connection from the charge terminal to the battery in order to charge. You can confirm the batrery is charging by checking the voltage at the battery with the engine running. Voltage should be at least 13.5vdc. If yes, see dead battery section at link below. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

The engine noise is not related to the stabilitrack. Stabilitrack is usually caused by a bad wheel sensor. Get the trouble codes read to find out exactly what's going on. Which engine do you have?

top of the engine above the intake manifold

You need to have the front end and frame inspected for worn damaged parts, do not keep driving this vehicle or a full on failure will occur with the resulting loss of control and possible crash.

run the fault codes and check for cam/crank position sensor problems

Considering the size and weight of the Tahoe, running on 4 cylinders would be less fuel efficient then running on all 8. Its like having one horse pull a cart instead of two, sure it takes more hay to feed two horses but combine they work a lot less to get the job done. I can't image running a Tahoe on a 4cyl engine, the acceleration would take donkeys years to get up to speed, it would be struggling and working its guts out to get anywhere with that minimal horsepower. I think your best bet, dump the Tahoe and get something smaller and more efficient. Owning a SUV these days is like owning a very hungry horse, it needs to be fed if you want to use it. If you can't afford the fuel its using its time to put it to pasture and get something else! The 5.3L is a gas guzzler, just how it is, i haven't seen one yet that did better then 15-18mpg on the highway, and thats usually at the top of their range under ideal conditions. Your probably better off with something smaller with a V6 or even an inline 4. But your not going to fix your issues by crippling the Tahoe.

it is a 2007 vehicle so there would be no warranty on the diff as for the cost , replacement diffs from wreckers. junk yards with the same ratio would be less that 1/2 that so I think that you are being touched in the wallet area or get a fully rebuilt diff from an accredited diff and transmission specialist shop

which sensor was replaced there are 2 sensors involved one after the cat converter and one in the exhaust manifold /pipe before the cat converter the code will read the same for both

The air ride system can be "self tested" with a GM Tech 2 scan tool, you need that done to see what is causing this problem, it could be the suspension height sensor, it could be a leaking air bag (very common) or a defective air compressor or damaged leaking air lines from the compressor to the airbags, also a very common. The airbags are good for about 75,000 miles or less if the roads you travel on are in poor condition.