2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You will need to have it scanned at a shop to retrieve codes. Some auto part stores will also do this for free.

if it is a squeak it is the belt if it is a growl it could be a pulley going bad you can better determine if it is a belt or pulley buy taking the belt off and spining the pulleys by hand to see if one has any play or noise if not relpace belt

I have run into the same problem in my 07 Commander. It is the oxygen sensor. IT is described as the downstream (before the catalytic converter)sensor 2 on bank 2 which is the drivers side of the cylinders. This is what I have been told from a member on the forum that I am on. I am still waiting back to hear from the dealership to have them fix my problem. I too have been there 4 times too.

I'll try this out. I had tried the neutral/start thing and even the remote start, but when it's bad, nothing happens. I do hear a relay click (I think under the dash, but that's it. It is at the dealer for the second time and so far it works fine every time they try to start it. We will try again tomorrow. They want to replace the starter and/or the ignition key lock. I want them to find the fail so we have to wait until it fails to get the codes. Aahhhh!

If the diagnostic code wasn't cleared with a scan tool and thus turning off the engine light; it will stay on for this code until the engine computer no longer detects a problem. For emissions control parts that will take a predetermined number of warm up and run cycles, usually about 30.

In other words if the problem was fixed then your computer will clear the code and the engine light will shut off automatically. That is what your dealer service should have told you.

1. Turn the headlamps ON and select the LOW beams for vehicles in all markets except Japan. Vehicles for the Japanese market should have the headlamp HIGH beams selected.
2. Insert a screwdriver through the outboard clearance hole (1) in the front lamp unit cover (2) to rotate the headlamp vertical adjustment screw on each front lamp (3) to adjust the beam height as required.
3. For export markets only, insert a screwdriver through the inboard clearance hole in the front lamp unit cover to rotate the headlamp horizontal adjustment screw on each front lamp to adjust the beam right or left as required.

Hi. here is something you can try,put you some paper tape around door when its closed put in pieces and drive car and see if that don't stop air noise if so take off one piece of tape at a time and re drive this how you can narrow down were the air is coming in at. most likely its the weather seal around door. If i can help just re post

Sounds like seals are worn, check with local body shop they'll be able to tell by looking.

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It is most likely the battery or battery terminal connections.

Here is a link to some information that should help you:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8075ad10
I would replace the strut mounts, they often go bad, and cause a knock or rattle when hitting bumps.

In order to properly test a battery it needs to be fully charged using an external battery charger, then load tested. A car alternator is not designed to do anything except maintain the batterys initial state of charge. A good battery will not drop below 9.5 volts when loaded to 300 amps, and should quickly return to at least 12volts when load is removed..
If the battery does not pass that test, replace it. Then, have a charging test done on the vehicle with the new battery installed. A quick test can be done by putting a volt meter on the battery and watching voltage with all the accessories turned on. Generally the volt reading should remain around 13volts and not slowly drop over time. A reading of 14volts or higher also indicates a problem of over-charging that can overheat and damage the battery.
What you said sounds a lot like your battery has sulphated (material from the plates falls down to the bottom of the battery and causes internal shorting allowing the battery to drain itself over time). A load test will show that. But, driving with a marginal battery can damage the charging system so a charging test should always be done after replacement.

The bulbs for those buttons are burned - just take out the instrument cluster and replace them. Beware, the trim on it is quite fragile, remove it gently or take it to a repair shop and let them worry about it.

flushing a trans is not good because particals from the oil can clog valve body and ruin it--always just drop pan change filter and drain--that lite means theres a bad code-scan truc for free at a parts place and tell me wats happenin

sounds like a fluid flow problem. probably need to change the fluid and filter in the transmission. If the sensor is bad it will have to be replaced. Hopefully it is that simple. If its sticking in gear and delaying when its cold I would prepare yourself for a transmission rebuild. It could be a pre-cursor to a bigger problem.

regardless of what anyone says, I say 50,000 miles max, I have had the best performance in V-8's, V-6's and the L-6 motor running a bosch platinum plugs. I run split fire platinums in 2 of my pors 928's

FRONT AXLE ± 0.3 L (2 oz.)
C200F
1.7L (57.5 Ounces)
C200FE
1.7L (57.5 Ounces)***
REAR AXLE ± 0.3 L (2 oz.)
C213R
2.07L (70 Ounces)
C213RE
2.24L (75.5 Ounces)***
*Nominal refill capacities are shown. A variation may be observed from vehicle to vehicle due to manufacturing tolerance and refill procedure.
** Includes 0.9L (1.0 Quarts) for coolant reservoir.
***ELSD - add 118 ml (4 Ounces) of friction modifier.
Transfer Case (3.7L Engine)
Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
Transfer Case (3.0/4.7/5.7L Engines)
Mopar® NV 247/245 Transfer Case Lubricant
Transfer Case (6.1L Engine)
Mopar® NV146 Transfer Case Fluid. Usage of other fluid/lubricants is NOT recommended.
Axle Differential (Front-Rear)
Mopar® Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant SAE 75W-140 (API-GL5) or equivalent with friction modifier additive.

The factory remote start system is designed to not function
when ever a check engie light is illuminated. The issue would have to be diagnosed by dealer and repaired. The remote starter should work again after repairs.

Check rear park assist sensors for corrosion or dirt build
up on face of sensor