20 Most Recent 2007 Chrysler 300c AWD Sedan New Cars - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I don't want to imply you don't have your brakes serviced or your shop is less than competent--But,unless a wheel weight fell off,or you have a really bad CV Joint causing this vibration,along with bad motor mounts,yes you can have a combination of worn items. Then I will bet on the fact that at least 50% of your problem,is worn brake rotors,rusted pad slides,rusted caliper mounting bracket and no one ever lubed a thing during any brake work. So pads grabbing rotors and you got brake chatter. Please don't be offended,but in my world that could have been prevented with semi-annual brake service.

If you apply the brake and nothing happens than it could be your leankage.

Your vehicle holds 5 to 5.5 quarts of transmission fluid. If you do not plan on replacing the dipstick you can drain the fluid from your tranny and replace it with 5.5 quarts of transmission fluid. I would recommend replacing the dipstick so you can determine the amount you have in your transmission.

your Fuel filters are in need of a chage or you have moister in your tank there are products sold over the counter for these minor difficaulties if it is a 2007 you should still have warrenties on such things as a quick inspection of these areas and in a Chrystler dealer they should be able to help more .

In the 2006 manual The fuse for this is listed as #44. It is a 20 AMP fuse. Looking at the diagram, it appears to be one of the larger square shaped ones that are, It is listed to be in the "Power Distribution Center".
Hope this helps.

no, sealed unit no grease fittings

The warrenty should cover this problem. The oil pressure is a very important part of the powertrain.
As for the engine cutoff, this may be caused by the
powertrain control module shutting down the engine
due to little or no oil pressure to prevent serious
damage. This could be as simple as a bad oil pressure sending unit. But it could also be the oil
pump. In any case I would talk to the crysler dealer
to avoid voiding the warrenty. Hope this helps.
Good luck.

check with the dealer,there are TSB's on your problem.

IT APPEARS YOU VEHICLE IS NOT COMUNICATING WITH THE ELECTRONIC CHIP IN YOUR KEY. HAVE YOU CHANGED CAR KEYS RECENTLY IE USING A SPARE KEY? IF SO TRY USING THE ORIGINAL KEY. ALSO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO ADDITIONAL CAR KEYS ON THE KEY RING. IF THAT FAILS, I WILL SUGGEST YOU HAVE THE KEY/S PAIRED WITH THE CAR AGAIN.

yes maybe a fuse, also look under the seat and ensure the wire is connected they sometimes get caught when moving the seat back and forward and split against the metal seat base.

your going to start with the crank sensor and go from there,when car dies you are going to have to check to see if your losing spark or fuel.remove a plug wire and place it near a good metal ground have someone spin engine see if it still has spark when it doesnt start, next is fuel top of engine find valve,almost looks like a tire valve, remove cap use a pen to push valve, hold and trun engine gas should spray, start there. hope this is helpful.

I believe this is a brake warning light. Parking brake is on? Brake fluid is low?

loose or bad connection on rear screen connector or open circuit due to scratched or broken screen heater...

DID YOU CHECK THE FUSES AND RELAYS UNDER THE HOOD ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

Sounds like you have transmission trouble, going into neutral at 30 to 40 mph sounds like it may have a second or third gear slipping.
Sorry to say you will need to take it to your dealer or an independent repair shop to have the transmission checked because there are no quick fixes

Shifter is broken. VERY COMMON problem I have replaced several of these. Can only get from dealer.

The key to proper flashing, is EACH AND EVERY light needs to be working. Until you acheive that, flashing will not be normal.The flasher requires each filiment's resistance to be correct, not close, correct.

Look for grounding problems... and replace any lights that are not working.

This issue resolves at the garage opener, itself. Later model openers use rolling code technology, which moves access code with each transmitter, on each use...

Read the directions on your opener (yes get a ladder and climb up there..) essentially the methodology is typically press button on new transmitter, and hold, then press programming button on the opener, and when the lights flash, release both, then test remote...

Read directions on your opener, as a very similar process EXCLUDES all prior transmitters...

Doc.

make sure your gas cap clicks a few times they have a baffle vent in them and cause a vapor lock next time it does it take your gas cap off youll hear a vaccum