20 Most Recent 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 2 Doors - Page 6 Questions & Answers

either you have a severe alignment problem, or something on your front end is loose. first thing I would do is to grab some wrenches and just start going through the nuts and bolts one by one just to be sure theyre all tight. pay close attention to the u bolts that clamp around the axle, and the steering linkage, like the ball joints/tierod ends. make sure theyre all tight.
if that doesnt help, then put the front of the truck on jackstands, and physically shake the tires up an down and left to right while watching everything, again paying close attention to the ubolts and the steering linkage. you might be able to see something loose, or something that has an excessive amount of play. its common for ball joints / tie rod ends to wear and if they do it will cause abnormal steering. or even wheel bearings. they will give you the same symtoms, but usually make alot of noise when theyre bad. also check the leaf springs where they mount to the frame, and the shackles too.

I have a 2003 wrangler with this condition known a "death wobble".usually caused by worn front end joints,and or worn steering damper.i solved mine with new damper,an end link and tie rod ends

there is a service update for this here it is.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience a rubbing-like sound during hard cornering, when the
steering wheel is turned to its full lock position. This condition may occur in either direction
(full left or full right turn). This condition may be caused by the tire momentarily contacting
the stabilizer bar.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the vehicle is equipped with the 17 inch Goodyear Silent Armor Tire, inspect the tire
inboard surface and the stabilizer bar for evidence of light contact. If contact is present
perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
2 06509438AA Washer, Flat (10.4mm I.D. x 23.0mm O.D. x 4.5mm
Thickness w/special corrosion coating)

Generally you just push the gas pedal to the floor three times quickly to reset the oil sensor.

Have you tried running conventional oil and see how much it burns? If it is truely burning that much oil, you have a problem with the rings not seating, or PCV system sucking in too much oil. If it doesn't burn that much with conventional oil, I would stick with that. If it does, you have a bad motor issue.

there is a technical bulletin on this issue if you go to your nearest dealer they will rectify your problem

If it is still under warranty take it to the dealer. You could have at a minimum have thrown the weights off the tires. But anything like tie rod ends or belts in the tires could be bad.

SUBJECT:
Long Crank Time Due To Possible Contact Of Camshaft Sensor To Camshaft Gear
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the engine camshaft sensor.
MODELS:
2007 (JK) Wrangler
NOTE: This bulletin applies to vehicles equipped with a 3.8L engine (sales code
EGT).
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience one of the following conditions:
a). Long engine crank time.
b). Two engine start attempts prior to engine starting.
c). Due to the “TIP Start Feature” on automatic transmission equipped vehicles, once the
ignition key / switch has been released from the “START” position, the starter may stay
engaged for up to 10 seconds while the engine attempts to start.
The above conditions may be due to the position of the camshaft sensor to the camshaft
gear. The sensor spacer gasket may have come loose during engine assembly and
caused the camshaft sensor to be adjusted too close or in contact with the camshaft gear.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the above condition is present perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
Qty. Part No. Description
1 04686353 Sensor, Camshaft

The recall is for the ABS module for lockup. That is most likely the problem, but to do the recall you have to flash the module with it installed in the vehicle. If you want you can rent a Star scan or mobile via techautority.com have lots of info for mopar aplication for do it yourselfers. Hope the info helps.

Check the IOD fuse in the engine back it is a double 10 amp fuse with a pull up tab. If that is good you need a radio should still be under warenty.

Hey Tim take a look at this, will this help ?
SUBJECT:
No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM / SKREEM
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
MODELS:
2007
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the
remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an
electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module
(WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more
frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is
more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM
DIAGNOSIS:
1. With the condition present (i.e. the vehicle in the no crank / no start condition), connect
the StarSCAN® scan tool to the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position, and power up the StarSCAN®.
3. If the WCM is electronically locked up, the StarSCAN® will display the WCM as being
“off bus”.
4. If the no crank / no start condition is present, and the WCM is “off bus”, then reset the
WCM by temporarily removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch),
wait for 10 seconds and then reinstall the IOD fuse.
5. With the IOD fuse reset having been performed, verify that the vehicle will now crank,
start, and run.
6. If the condition is temporarily corrected by performing the above steps, and if the part
number of the WCM is earlier than the part number of the WCM listed in the part
reference table in the Service Bulletin Parts Required Section below, then perform the
Repair Procedure.

where inside the jeep is it wet? I believe the unlimited model was all removable hard top. any way check the seals around the removable top and at the windows. but that is the best i can do w/out knowing where inside your jeep it's wet.

do you get the water only when you are driving in wet conditions or is your air conditioning condensation leaking into the car instead of draining outside ( does the vehicle even have air conditioning ) if it is from outside, most likely it is splashing up at the wheel well or firewall and finding it's way in.

The problem is in the "steering shaft".The slip joint that is used on Wranglers and many other applications uses 2 splined shaft that slide into one another. I explained the problem to a shade tree mechanic I work with,he knew exactly what it was and explained my symptoms exactly.He said he had a cavalier that had the same type of shaft years back and experienced the same problem.Lack of grease between the splines or excesively worn splines are the problem.Since the wrangler is brand new ,I would expect a lack of grease. He told me to use open gear compund(ALSO FITH WHEEL GREASE).Its a "high" tack grease that actually becomes thicker as its worked.(used in appliations where 2 gears intersect each other but are not able to be oiled due to size or configuration).I took some from our maintence shop at work and bought a small grease/oil syringe. I took my shaft off yesterday while performing an oil change.It took less than 5 minutes. Upon removal I notice a tiny bit of slop when I twisted the upper and lower portions of the shaft.Not much but enough to feel it through the steering wheel.I removed the upper clamp and inserted the grease syringe under the lip.I pumped the boot full of that black goop.I used a zip tie to secure the boot. After the boot was secure.I worked the shaft to compression and back to full extension until it became very hard to slide them back and forth into each other.As I stated ,this open gear compound is very thick and has a high tack to it.You will know once its worked its way into the splines.I could not feel any slop betwen the shafts any more. I reinstalled the shaft and Viola! No more clunky steering.A new steering shaft will probably cure the problem,but just greasing it solved mine. I don't think regular grease will cut it,it might be ok but it will have to be done more often. I hope this helps everyone.I've been trying to track this down for 2 months and I finally got it thanks to some **** mechanic

You may want to check with factory recalls. There was a letter sent to 2007 owners about a computer upgrade to solve loss of sudden power along with some ABS issues.

First, verify the actual voltage at the battery with a voltmeter. Second, make sure terminal connections are clean and secure at both terminals and the other ends of the battery cables as well. Also find the source of the noise you hear...If it's coming from a relay, find out which one now, before it completely fails and is more dificult to locate. (do not change it till you verify all connections are good and actual voltage is good.
There are a few more tests you can do but do these first.

I had the same problem with my 2007 Sahara Unlimited. I'll make a long story as short as possible. For a number of years my son ran a Chrysler / Jeep dealership and I contacted him (I bought my Jeep from him before he got out of the business) and he told me this is a sporadic problem with the Wrangler line. To the point of calling him I had tried everything and nothing worked...insert key, turn, nothing...all electrical worked, lights, power windows, radio, etc, etc. He told me to disconnect the negative power connection on the battery for a second or two then re-attach. Insert key, engine starts, everything works as advertised.

Essentially, my son told me this "re-boots" the system. For whatever, and to his knowledge, never explained by Jeep, this fix works but no idea as to why it happens in the first place.

Hope this is of some help...though I suggest that there may be more "fixes" to this problem.

Regards...