If this vehicle is equipped with rear struts....not shock absorbers...which most vehicles are equipped with today the sound you are speaking of seems to indicate worn strut plates and bushings... most repair facilities over look these items when replacing the strut housings and thus customer gets this noise even louder now that the struts are new and the plates and bushings are old not able to absorb the shock the vehicles suspension incurrs whuile riding over a bumpy terrain.
This something I copied from an eBay listing, so I haven't done it yet.
Uplander Glove Box Hinge
Used in good condition.
Has minor cosmetic flaws like scratches, scrapes or scuffs you would normally expect to find on a used item.
Includes 5 screws and nuts to replace the rivets.
A web search may yield a video for you to watch.
Required Tools:
Flat screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver or else a 7mm socket and rachet
Electric drill with a 3/16" inch bit
Needle nose pliers or vise grips.
3/8" inch wrench.
Removal Instructions:
Remove the panel underneath the glove box.
3 Black 3/4" inch pan head bolts hold it in place.
Use a flat screwdriver to pry a little and slip the prongs of a pair needle nose pliers on either side of a bolt.
Push down on the handle of the needle nose pliers to remove each bolt.
Remove 2 phillips screws along the bottom of the glove box hinge.
Remove 2 phillips screws inside the glove box.
Remove the small black cabin air filter access door inside the glove box.
Put your fingers inside the left side of the access door opening.
Yank backward to loosen the 1 retainer clip on the left side of the glove box assembly.
Often times the 2 retainer clips on the right are also loosened.
Skip steps 1 to 5 if you can remove the entire glove box assembly at this point.
1) Open the front passenger door.
2) Use the flat screwdriver to remove the fuse access panel.
3) 3 Retainer clips hold it in place.
4) Use both hands to grab the glove box assembly on the far right.
5) Yank backward to loosen the 2 retainer clips on the right side of the glove box assembly.
Pull the entire glove box assembly out of the dashboard.
Some models have a strip of masking tape behind the glove box to hold it in place.
Some models have a lamp inside the glove box. Leave it in place or else pry a black tab to disconnect the wiring harness.
Hold the 'ears' of a rivet with the vise grips or needle nose pliers.
Drill through the 5 rivets with your electric drill and 3/16" inch bit.
The rivets may fall apart. Otherwise, twist the vise grips or pliers for removal.
Remove 4+2=6 phillips screws on the glove box door.
Use a flat screwdriver to pry 2 tabs on the glove box door to remove the rectangular portion.
Installation Instructions:
Install the 4+2=6 phillips screws on the glove box door.
Install the 5 replacement phillips screws and nuts where the rivets were.
For some models reconnect the glove box lamp wiring harness.
Align the 3 retainer clips and push the fuse access panel into place.
Align the 3 retainer clips and push the glove box assembly firmly into place.
Install the small black cabin air filter access door inside the glove box.
Install 2 phillips screws inside the glove box.
Install 2 phillips screws along the bottom of the glove box hinge.
Install 3 black 3/4" inch pan head bolts under the glove box assembly to hold the panel in place.
- Done -
apart from trading it in for a new model you could try changing the back wheels for the front wheels and see if this cures the wobble.the car battery is fine if its starting ok so leave that well alone as no doubt the firestone have a special on the batteries where the mechanic gets so many cans of beer for each battery sold .forget the service engine light thats their to make you take vehicle to dealer to have it done to put the light out ,change the battery in the key fob but be warned this vehicle has to be put on the dealer diagnostic machine to reset ,another wheeze to keep the dealers in business so use another battery with the wires on to hook into contacts on the key fob before you change the battery ,save about 80 euros + labour .now the ABS light ??? thinking ,could be lots of things but here you may need a local mechanic to have a look for you as the cause could be sensor on a wheel or the wheel bearing as the modern motor uses a gray paste on the back of the wheel bearing instead of a metal ring with teeth and this paste/paint can get damaged by a twig or plastic bag getting caught behind the bearing rubbing it off ,i have the teashirt for this so dont ask.see how you get on and if you need anything else just answer the reply
Your vehicle has two fans controlled by three relay's . Both fans run together at two different speeds , low an high ! With the A/C on the fan's will run all the time while stopped at stop sign or idling . Any other time the then only come on when the coolant reaches a set temp. The ETC - engine coolant temp sensor is a input to the PCM - engine computer . When coolant temp reaches 212 degress the PCM energizes the fan 1 relay turning on both fans at low speed . This is very complex ,your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop.
Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics
The shift cable BUSHING is bad. You can go to advance auto, Napa or Oriellys and it's only $13 for 2 of them. I got mine from bushing fix.com and it's thicker than the rest but the others will work. Take the air filter box off and the 2 13mm bolts holding the shift cable to the transmission off and you pull the bracket out to you. Literally took me 20 minutes. I had to do mine today.
Just did this myself.
Open the front compartment under the drink holder, lightly push to one side and then pull on the side where the crack you've just made is to disengage the clips, repeat for the other side.
When you have that cleared, remove the screws that have the face plate attached to the drink holder.
Stick your hand up in through the hole where the lower compartment was and with the other hand push the drink holder in and out, changing the angle a little bit until you can pull it free.
I\'m having similar issue. I parked my 2007 Chevy Uplander in the driveway for winter, went out to start it for awhile and it wouldn\'t start, thought it was dead battery due to cold. Went out next day and before putting charger on it I turned the key again, this time the horn blew everytime I turned the key, no engine turnover, no click no nothing, just the horn blowing (scared me the first time)I put the charger/starter on it to see what it said and it says the battery is charged, the computer in the dash says the battery is at 13.8 v too.I thought mouse or rabbit chewed on something, but then when I Googled the problem and I found someone with the exact vehicle and exact problem I\'m thinking that it is not an animal of this World, but a Gremlin.Does anyone have any ideas at all?
