Your vehicle has two fans controlled by three relay's . Both fans run together at two different speeds , low an high ! With the A/C on the fan's will run all the time while stopped at stop sign or idling . Any other time the then only come on when the coolant reaches a set temp. The ETC - engine coolant temp sensor is a input to the PCM - engine computer . When coolant temp reaches 212 degress the PCM energizes the fan 1 relay turning on both fans at low speed . This is very complex ,your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop.
Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics
could be a weak battery enough power for the lights but not enough to turn the engine. charge the battery and have it checked. also sometimes the wires that go to battery get loose. also check the wire that runs from the battery to the starter where it bolts on to starter remove it and clean with wire brush or sandpaper and reinstall u should do the same with the battery cables. hope this will get u going
using a mechanics stethoscope check each running bearing while the engine is running. The normal noise will be a base rumble but if you hear one that is different to the others ( a series of knocks ) then suspect that as failing. The noise may be from the belt itself as it may be cracking or going hard and in need of replacement
I would advise getting a second opinion A mechanic told me my 92 Le sabre 's tranny was shot and when I took it to another mechanic he found my spark plug wires were shorting out and causing the car to down shift when you went up a slight incline and it would jump in and out of different gears. I replaced the plugs and wires myself and it rau like new.
Have someone push down and pull up on the hood while you pull the handle inside the car. Once you get it open, turn the bump-stops (one on each front corner of the area where the hood lands) counter clockwise to raise them. This should add some more pressure to help the hood "pop." Also, put some oil on the latch once it is open.
It sounds like either a poor connection at the battery, or the battery itself. If it's the original battery, it's done. Once you're up and running, check to make sure it's charging properly.
Hi Bajil, Have a diagnostic scan carried out and have the coolant temperature sensor and relay inspected for correct operation. It sounds as if a cable has become disconnected or that the operating circuit has become defective. The cooling circuit operation is correct when the fan operates when the engine temperature raises a fraction above normal. The fan will run for a number of seconds and then switch off, thereby maintaining the 'normal' operating temperature. Regards John
Never replaced a throttle body in 35 years of working on cars. Here's my advice don't go to autozone to fix your car, they sell parts not smarts. Did they tell you a code # or something. Usually engine performance problems stem from fuel or ignition problems. Does the engine perform ok? Let me know.
that is a very fast leak. try using UV dye leak detector. color of this dye is bright green and will be show at the leak source. a UV light is also helpful so you can see it better. you can buy this at any auto parts with freon mixed with it, with this leak you should see oily trace at the leak area, don't forget to recharge compressor oil after your repair.
