20 Most Recent 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LTZ - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Get a couple blocks about 6 to 8 inches tall. Lower your spare down with the blocks under the tire part. then you can reach under the tire pull the holding bracket down enough to turn it sideways and push it thru the hole in the wheel.

This could be several different things... Please run through this checklist for me.
1. Check that the battery terminals are securely fastened. (Important)
2. Check the Ignition Fuse. (This is located in the engine bay "Distribution Block") It will be about a 30amp fuse and will have an exposed center so you can visually check for a break.
3. If the vehicle is still not attempting to start, connect jumper cables from another running vehicle and try to start it. If it tries to start this time then your battery is dead and you will need a new one very soon.

push it in and it will pop out....

Most likely the gates that direct airflow either to the floor, dash, windshield or a combination have gotten stuck. This may be a vacuum leak or a mechanical problem. Try the just blowing it to the floor, then the dash, then the windshield and see if the air comes out more normally with one of those. Repairs for this can be expensive since you have to get behind the dash. If your system has knobs, you can try to pop the gates open or closed by quickly turning the knobs in different directions. That might help, but will still be annoying. Might need to take it to a shop to really get it fixed.

If you are having problems getting the safety interlock to disengage, this is what I did to get the spare down on my 03 that I got about a month ago. I don't think the spare was ever brought down, so everything was rusted. I tried what the manual says: Use your ignition key to open the tube on the right side of the license plate. Then take the two jack handle extensions, and put them together. Put the open square end into the tube until it stops. Then use the lug wrench/ jack handle on the exposed closed square end and turn it counter clockwise to lower the tire. If this only gets the tire to lower a few inches then stop, turn the handle clockwise until it is tight and clicks twice. This is supposed to release the safety interlock, if repeated attempts of this procedure don't work, you are supposed to use the jack to push up on the center of the cable end until you hear a pop, with is the latch releasing. If this does not work, you can try what I did. Let me suggest also that if you have an older vehicle, it would be best to see if you can get the spare down at home, in your garage or driveway, before you need to do it on the roadside. I'm glad I did. I used two jacks to hold the tire all the way up as if it hadn't been lowered at all (you could also stack up some blocks of wood under the tire before you lower the cable). Be sure to leave yourself access in the center of the tire as you will need to get in under the hub. Now, if you haven't already, lower the cable about 8-10 inches so that everything is slack (the tire should not move!). Look up at the safety interlock, it is something like an upside-down "T". You should be able to rotate it around the cable now. The middle of this upside down "T" is rounded, but has four sides. One of the sides has a hook on it, and that is the safety catch. Two sides should be painted black, and two are plated (or rusted!). You need to figure out which side is the side that has the hook on it, it is one of the plated, not painted sides. Once you know which side has the hook, you can use a long screwdriver to push it towards the center, which will stop the hook from catching and allow you to pull the safety interlock down and free from the lip that it was caught on. Now you just need to lower the jacks or kick out the wood blocks and you can remove the tire. I soaked the whole works with penetrating oil the night before I did all this (when I discovered that I couldn't get the spare down). Once I got everything out, I soaked it with more oil and cleaned it the best I could. I'm not sure if the safety interlock will work again, but I cleaned and painted the cable end, and will make it a yearly thing to check and maintain the cable and end so that the cable doesn't fail and I don't need to worry about the interlock. Hope this helps.

You may have a bad tire, low tire pressure, or the vehicle may be out of alignment. Check all your tires first. If you need anything else Dion, let me know. I will help you as much as I can.

Check the fuse first thing. I looked in your owners manual and it gives no instructions on how to close it manually but I am sure there is a way. Call your local Chevy dealer if the fuse is good to find out how to manually close it.

If it is equipped with the code reader, you can. You just need to know the code to do it. It could be in the owner manual or you may be able to get the code from the dealership. More then likely, the oil didn't set it off. The light comes on because the computer detected a problem. Take it to Autozone and they can read it for free. I honestly don't know if the 07 is equipped with the code instrument. I thought it was, but not sure. If you can't find it, just go to Autozone, unless you can get a code scanner. If you have another question, please let me know. I am here to help.

it screws simply into the engines oil pan

try tapping on the starter

It's either the sender that's on the rear of the block behind the intake manifold, or a bad connection to it.

I need to have a little more information to give a well informed answer. I have a 2007 LTZ (dual auto control), and have been experiencing blower problems. Mine seemed to work when it wanted to. At first, I could slap the cover under the passenger side, and it would come on. That trick stopped working, so did some research, and found out that the resistor failure is a common problem. I found a resistor online for $30+. I put it in, and it did not solve the problem. Took the blower out (pretty easy - just pry the plastic locking tab down, and twist counter clockwise - the blower will dop into you hand). I looked at the wire connection on the blower, and noticed the plastic connector was distorted and half melted. I called the local dealer and found out that the connector cost $120.00. I looked online and found an ACDELCO connector for $25.79 (Part # PT731). Put it on, and WAHLA fixed. I hope this helps.

the check engine being on disables remote start feature.need to have it scanned somewhere and see what the code is and I can assist yuou further from there. reason they do this is so it is not setting outside running poorly and possibly damaging something with out you aware

1. • 1 Open the hood and reach down into the engine bay for the fog light assembly. If you cannot reach the fog light assembly from the top you may need to get underneath the truck to reach it. Remove the electrical plug running to the fog light ballast.
     
   • 2 Remove the bulb. Unlock the fog light bulb by turning it counterclockwise and pulling it straight out of the assembly.
     
   • 3 Slide a new bulb into the fog light assembly. The part number you will need for the new bulb will be located on the ballast or base of the old bulb.
     
   • 4 Turn the bulb clockwise to lock it into the fog light housing.
     
   • 5 Reconnect the electrical connector to the bulb ballast.
     

Hello: What weight oil is in the engine? How many miles since last oil change? How many miles on truck? The first thing you could do is replace the oil pressure sensor. You will have to remove the intake manifold to gain access to the oil pressure sensor. If the engine is not knocking or there isn't any valve train noise then it could be the oil pressure sensor when this message is displayed.

Ummmmmmmmm go to the dealer, duh!!!!!!

All the dealerships have a TSB concerning this very problem. It concerns a possible loose connection at the 175 amp mega fuse located near the passenger side cowl. Tell them to get off their sorry behinds and fix the problem.