Top 20 2007 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Questions & Answers

Anon (no miles odometer told) the starter is dead? if yes say so clearly, starter silent, clicks, chatters or is 100% dead. silent. starter dead has 6 causes (plus Alternator tests too) engine dead up to 50 (valve springs broken of 24 there?) step 1 is check fuses #2 the jumper cable the battery and crank it over? the new battery is now dead. discharged from excessive cranking,or learn to keep the battery charged until it starts again. once started we do alternator tests, 13v to 15vdc running at lugs of battery. the engine shut off driving,? on the fly driving alternator bad or fuses to it blown. learn to use a voltmeter at the battery cranking 11vdc is par, CRANKING less means battery is weak or bad or simply discharged. a 2man test,1 cranks other measures battery lugs. all 4 lugs tight,and cleaned of rust. 2cables = 4 lugs. to fail. we use tools and meters and tests to find what is wrong what engine 4.0 L Cologne SOHC V6 4.6 L Modular 24-valve V8 ?>??????/ VIN #8 code ? cam chain failure?' scans show cam timing off? the driving to work stall sure can be the alternator dead or just 16 year old bad spark plugs? or 16 year old COP boots bad, sure the are that old filters bad? clogged. my guess (never accurate) guessing. is when driving to work, the GEN/CHARGE/BATTERY lamp in cluster was glowing and this is why it stalled then didnt do the jumper cable jump starte and see OMG all is good but the ALT /gen is dead. and stalls again in say 1 hours, driving and battery is dead again , wash wear repeat.

Just Google 2007 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Fuse Diagram

To save time and money scan first...

P1633 - Keep Alive Power (KAPWR) Voltage Too Low Description: Indicates the KAPWR circuit has experienced a voltage interrupt. Possible Causes:

• Open KAPWR circuit
• Intermittent KAPWR

Diagnostic Aids: Loss of KAPWR to the powertrain control module (PCM) results in immediate malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination and DTC P1633. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test QB .

Fords have a problem if the battery runs flat or they are disconnected thus removing power from the onboard computer(s). You may need to take the vehicle to a dealer service center to rectify the electronics problem for you and reset your computer.. To avoid this problem you need to connect up a second power source to the main leads to the battery while you are disconnecting those leads and replacing the battery so as to retain power to the onboard systems at all times. In any event here is an item that may help you........... Disconnect or Replace Battery on Ford Motor Cars and Trucks Disconnect or Replace Battery on Ford Motor Cars and Trucks =================================================

chek if the electric fan is turning on when the ac is turned on

there are screws and bolts on door handdle and on swich covers .they have tops on it . got to look real close.

Have you checked the bulbs? There are individual fuses for each headlamp so you'll want to check those also. they are in the battery junction box which is under the hood on the driver's side, fuse 29 is for the right headlamp and fuse 34 is for the left headlamp.

Hope this helps. Interior Fuse Box Location 2006 2010 Ford Explorer 2006 Ford Explorer... Diagram: Fuse and relay locations 2nd generation power distribution box Layout

Your owners manual will give you fuse location and identification for the rear wiper. Most likely a wiper motor problem though. Turn on rear wiper and grab rear wiper arm and see if it will move at all. If it does move a bit or starts working....the motor is the problem

Do a Google or Bing Search for "2007 (YEAR) Ford Explorer Shifter Light change" various blogs will come right up BUT the indicator is IN the Dash/Speedometer in the newer models and the shifter isin the Center Council....OR go to almost any of the Auto Parts stores and LOOK at their Haynes Manuals. MOST will change the light bulb for You!

Give the button area a good smack! The mechanism is probably just stuck in place. Try rocking the seat back and forward while pushing it as well. It sounds simplistic, but usually does the job.

I believe you can get this from a Ford dealer and obtain it with your VIN number.

Do you have base instrument cluster) or high series instrument cluster) ? Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• The message center is not operating correctly (base instrument cluster)

• Instrument cluster

• OBSERVE the operation of the message center when pressing the TRIP/SELECT button. Does the message center display change when the TRIP/SELECT button is pressed?
  • If the message center display changes, the system is operating normally at this time.
  • If the message center display does not change, INSTALL a new instrument cluster. REFER to Section 413-01 . TEST the system for normal operation.

• The message center is not operating correctly (high series instrument cluster)

• Message center switch
• Instrument cluster

• Go To Pinpoint Test A .

You can drive it but not over 45 mph, and probably not long on dry roads. Why not fix it instead? Several things can cause the problem but most likely is bad actuator.

What is your question about replacing them?

BLOWN FUSE/FUSES... OR YOU HAD A SHORT CIRCUIT OR HAVE YOU JUMPED IT RECENTLY? COULD'VE SHORTED THEM OUT..N\MORE LIKELY FUSES..EITHER UNDER THE DASH OR THE HOOD IN THE FUSE BOX..GET A TESTER AND TEST ALL FUSES ALL.. AND ALSO BLOWN A RELY FUSE WHICH IS A BLACK LOOKING CUBE.. MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET THE CORRECT ONE.. TAKE IT TO A AUTO PARTS SUPPILER TO GET THE CORRECT ONE AND THE NEW ONES WILL NOT LOOK LIKE THE OLD ONES NEITHER..

You may have to bring the truck to your local mechanic or an autozone and reset your computer.You can also do it by taking your negitive battery cable off for 10 to 30 seconds.If you go that rout you will have to reset your radio channels.When you get a check engine light depending if it is a hard or soft code it is stored in the pcm.you will have to remove the code or it will keep it stored

I would check the u-joints in the drive shaft. both ends. that will cause hard shifting and a clunk when shifting gears as well.